Pets Can Stay

The Beautiful Betta Fish

2010-03-04T21:11:00.000-08:00

Sooner or later every child wants a pet. But what if your grandchild has an allergy that prevents him from having a furred or feathered friend? Or what if she lives in a strictly enforced no-pets zone or can't have one that has to be exercised or groomed? Not to worry! There's a hypo-allergenic pet that never needs to be walked, is quiet, doesn't bite, doesn't require a costly set up and is easy to care for. What is this perfect pet? It's the beautiful betta fish.

Bettas are easy to find in most any pet store. Look for a fish that is actively swimming and has no splits or tears in its fins or tail. Injuries such as these can sometimes turn into fungal infections.

Female bettas aren't as showy as the males and they can be harder to find. The more attractive male bettas have long flowing fins and tails and make very interesting pets. If properly cared for, bettas can live to be 2 or 3 years old. And since most are already adults when purchased, your betta's life span could depend on how old the fish was when you bought it.

Bettas come in a rainbow of lovely colors – blue, green, red, purple, aqua and even white – so your grandchild may be able to find a fish in his favorite color.

You should never put two male bettas (also called Siamese fighting fish) in the same container. They will fight to the death. To see a betta display aggressive posture, hold a mirror up to the bowl. The fish will flare its fins and gills at the reflection. This behavior makes it look bigger and more threatening to an intruder.

The Betta's Home

Bettas do well in small containers, and though you often see them for sale in tiny cups, these cups shouldn't be used as the betta's permanent home. A nice, large goldfish bowl works well and one that holds at least a gallon of water would be more than adequate for a single betta.

Keep the bowl in an area of the home where the temperature is stable. A range of around 70 degrees to 75 degrees is fine, and as long as the room doesn't get too cold, a heater in the bowl won't be necessary. Just be careful not to place the bowl where the sun will shine directly on it, and don't set it too close to heating or cooling vents.

Housekeeping

Keep an eye on the water. When it starts to look a little cloudy, it's time to do a water change. Help your grandchild carefully dip the fish out and set it aside in a cup of bowl water. Dump the old water and lightly rinse the gravel and accessories, and then refill the bowl with water that is about the same temperature as the discarded water. It's a good idea to use water that has aged for a few hours or to which you have added a couple of drops of chlorine neutralizer. When your grandchild has finished cleaning and refilling the bowl, gently release the betta back into its home.

You can also change about a quarter of the water twice a week, if you wish. Top the bowl off with fresh water, or use bottled drinking water. If you choose this method, show your grandchild how to use a small fish net to dip any debris out of the bottom of the bowl.

There may sometimes be a lot of bubbles clustered at the top of the bowl, but these are nothing to worry about. The betta is just building bubble nests. An interesting note: Bettas are labrynth fish, which means they are able to breathe air!

Chow Time

Ask the pet store personnel to recommend a good betta food. Teach your grandchild how to sprinkle a small amount of food in the bowl a couple of times a day. The betta will learn to come to the top of the bowl and eat the food as soon as it hits the water.

Always be careful to feed only as much food as the fish will eat in a few minutes. Too much uneaten food will cloud the water faster and could make the betta sick.

Additions to the Betta Bowl

Your grandchild will probably enjoy picking out a few cute ornaments to dress up the fish bowl. And she might even want to buy aquarium gravel to match the fish's color! Just make sure there are no sharp edges on anything and that the betta will still have plenty of room to swim.

An aquatic snail will help keep the bowl clean and will be interesting to watch. A small plant also would be a nice addition to the bowl. Ask the store employee to help your grandchild choose.

Pets help teach children compassion, responsibility and patience. In cases where regular pets aren't possible, betta fish are fascinating, interactive and affordable alternatives. With a little attention and good care, these fish can be wonderful companions. And think how rewarding it will be to share the experience of caring for another living creature with your grandchild.

Choosing the right Goldfish

2010-02-18T22:15:00.000-08:00

Goldfish are a temperate breed that can be found in cool streams, lakes, and ponds throughout Asia and part of Eastern Europe. However, the ones you will buy for your tank have been bred in captivity. Once you've decided that the goldfish is the right fish for you - you will need to find the right kind of goldfish. Take your time and find out more, rather than just rush out and buy the first goldfish you find in the first pet store you come by. Decide on how many you want to buy. If you really want just a single goldfish, please do a re-think on the issue because it can get lonely and boring for a lone ranger in a tank! Once you've though it out, here are some of the things you must keep in mind:

Choose the right pet shop
When you enter the shop, look around at all the tanks. Make sure that the tanks are not overcrowded with fish. See if all kinds of fish are thrown together in one tank or care is taken to separate the various species. Look out for dead floating fish. The dead fish could have spread an infection to the other fish.

Observe how the fish swims
This is a good gauge to identify healthy fish. A fish should be active, swimming with ease and style and poking around curiously at nooks and corners. Choose a goldfish that looks active and doesn't wobble or tilt to one side or just rest at the bottom. Tap the tank and see how the goldfish reacts. A fish that is slow in its reaction might be a sick one. Make sure that it's not opening its mouth too much for air, as it might be an indication of problems with the gills.

Check out the fins
Make sure that the dorsal fin is straight and stands up. The backs of the goldfish should be smooth, without unsightly bumps. Also check that all the fins are healthy, even and are not rotted away or damaged. In all, a goldfish should have a dorsal fin, pectoral fins that extend out on each side, two anal fins or one right in the middle. Beware a goldfish with just one anal fin that's placed kind of off to one side. It could mean that the other anal fin is growing inwards and that could be fatal to the goldfish.

Inspect the looks
Make sure that you give the goldfish you are choosing a thorough look over. See that the fish has a nice symmetrical shape and make sure they don't have large heads compared to their body. Ensure that the skin is free of spots and odd bumps and that the gills are red. There should be no redness in the anal region and definitely nothing sticking out or leaking out. The outside of the mouth should be free from redness and white strings and the eyes free from white flecks.

Bag them right
Where you're buying goldfish, you will have to put them in the ubiquitous plastic bag, but do so with care. Make sure that the dealer leaves enough space on top for the oxygen and the right amount of water. The right amount of the water is that which covers the fish. Do not allow the dealer to add any medicine or drops or anything else. Don't make the bag too tight and avoid a big bag that might lead to too many folds in which the fish could get trapped and hurt. The bag should be tied till it is adequately taut.

The Right Tropical Fish Aquarium

2010-02-15T23:28:00.000-08:00

The first decision you must make when you buy an aquarium is whether you plan to keep freshwater fish or saltwater fish. It's up to you whether you want to keep saltwater or freshwater, but if this is your first aquarium, then I suggest you start with a freshwater aquarium.

Here's why: Saltwater tanks are more expensive and more complex. You have extra things to worry about such as the salinity of the water, water conditioning, and temperature. Because of this, freshwater fish are much easier to care for if you're new to keeping tropical fish.

Here's a few other things to keep in mind when buying an aquarium:

Location
When you're deciding on a location for your aquarium, remember that it can't be placed in direct sunlight, or anywhere else that could result in changes in temperature.

Also remember that your aquarium, when filled with water, can be very heavy. As an example, a filled 20-gallon glass tank will weight about 225 pounds. Bear this in mind when you choose on a location for your aquarium...as it will be impossible to move afterwards.

Level floor
You will need a level floor for your aquarium, as this will reduce stress on the tank and reduce the chance of any cracks forming over time due to the floor being uneven.

Electrical outlet
Make sure your new tank is located near an electrical outlet so you can plug in the heaters, lights and pumps.

Accessible
You'll need to have easy access to your tank so you can use the heater controls and air valves. You also need to have room for a net, and room to move decorations around.

Shape
When you're choosing the shape of your aquarium choose short, longer shapes over tall, thinner shapes. This way there will be more surface area at the top of the water, which is much better for your fish.

Size
It is best to choose an aquarium over 10 gallons. Why? Because it's just easier to take care of a fish in a larger tank than a smaller one. Whatever aquarium you choose, it is going to, over time, have a build up of waste material. In a large tank these toxic materials have more room to be dispersed. This means the water stays cleaner for longer, and will require less cleaning than a smaller tank.

Material
Aquariums can be made from glass or acrylic. Both have there pros and cons, but I recommend beginners to start with a glass aquarium. Why? Firstly, they cost less, secondly, they don't scratch so easily, and thirdly, they only need to be supported by the edges.

As you can see, you need to put some time and consideration into where you choose to place your aquarium. All these things will play a part in which aquarium you choose to buy.

How to Breed American Bulldogs

2010-02-13T22:03:00.000-08:00

Breeding American bulldogs is not something that people should go into lightly. If you are planning on breeding for the purpose of profit, you may need to figure out the costs first before you proceed with your plans of becoming a bulldog breeder. Some of the costs that may come into play include the vaccinations, the feeding of the puppies till they are of an age when they can be taken to their new owners and the place that they will need to stay in until such time. You will also need to take your breeding bitch to the vet for regular checkups once she is pregnant and you may need to spend a lot of money on the kind of food needed to raise a good breeding bulldog for your breeding plans. If you find that you have what it takes to breed American bulldogs, financially, physically and mentally, then go ahead and start your bulldog breeding program.

Starting Out

The best source of information for neophyte bulldog breeders is not found in how-to books or instructional manuals. The best information on breeding bulldogs comes from those who have been doing it for quite a while. This can be gained from a membership into a breeding club and from associating with those experienced breeders who are willing to share their knowledge on the subject. You can still peruse certain publications about the basics of breeding American bulldogs and what kinds of bulldogs are best for you to breed. Research is a key element in knowing what is best for your breeding plans and a little information from those who are in the business of breeding bulldogs can help you get started on the right foot.

Choosing and Raising the Dogs

Very few breeders start off breeding their pups from a dog that they already have as a pet. The majority of people who get their bulldogs as pets often get their puppies spayed or neutered at the request of the breeder since a lot of them may not want careless breeding of these dogs. If you decide to become a breeder, you may need to get a stud and a brood bitch to get yourself started. This actually requires a bit of planning and some waiting if you want your pups to be of the kind of temperament and quality you want them to be. Breeding from a dog you got from a pet store is quite unheard of and irresponsible to boot. If you want to breed American bulldogs the professional way, you will have to choose a proper breeding kennel to get your stud and bitch from and you may have to wait awhile before you do get your start-up breeding pair. When you do have the dogs that you want to use for your breeding program, you will need to raise them to a certain maturity level for them to be able to take care of the resulting pups from such a union. This may mean that you won't be breeding any pups sooner than 2 years or so. This also means you will have to take extra care of your brood bitch in this length of time with the proper nutrition needed for future breeding.

Cat Mange

2010-02-08T01:11:00.000-08:00

Types of Cat Mange

Although mange is less common in cats, young pets and certain breeds are more susceptible to mites. In addition, pets living within close proximity to dogs infected with mange can contract the infection. The types of mange commonly seen in cats include mange associated with ear mites, demodectic mange, notoedric mange and sarcoptic mange.

Symptoms of Cat Mange

The symptoms of each type of mange only slightly vary from the others. Symptoms of mange associated with ear mites include ear inflammation, itching, redness and discharge from the ear. Cats suffering from demodectic mange exhibit symptoms either all over the body or in localized areas, including hair loss, crusty skin, itchiness and skin lesions. The symptoms of sarcoptic mange include localized papules, excessive itching and all other symptoms of demodectic mange. Notoedric mange, also known as head mange, can cause excessive itching and bleeding sores.

Diagnosis of Cat Mange

The vet will perform a physical examination to determine the clinical symptoms present. A skin scraping test is then performed to analyze the cells under a microscope. Skin scraping tests reveal the type of mange infection present. Absence of mites during microscopic examination of skin cells doesn't indicate that the cat isn't suffering from mange. Cats suffering from severe demodectic mange are also tested for the feline leukemia virus and the feline AIDS virus to rule out underlying health concerns.

Treatment of Cat Mange Includes:

* Use of a sulfur lime dip to kill the infection.
* Antibiotic medication to cure secondary bacterial infections.
* Use of medicated shampoos.
* Application of hydrocortisone solutions to soothe itching and inflammation.
* Topical antibiotic medication to treat open sores or lesions.

Lime Sulfur Dip

This is a medicated solution, available under various brand names, used to treat mange and parasites. The solution is generally diluted with water and applied to affected areas. Lime sulfur dips should be applied once every week for at least 6 weeks. The solution shouldn't be ingested by the cat and pet owners should carefully read and follow package instructions before using the product. Cats treated for mange require follow up skin scraping tests to determine if the infection is still active.

Home Care

Notoedric mange is very contagious and hence pet owners should treat all other pets living within proximity of the infected cat. Cat bedding should be washed and the surroundings treated with pet friendly disinfectants. Although long term prevention of cat mange is difficult, pet owners should keep healthy cats away from sick or infected pets.

Most cats respond favorably to mange medication. Pets that don't respond to treatment or that are suffering from frequent mange infections require other diagnostic tests to detect immune-suppressing disorders.

Dog Illnesses

2010-02-06T00:11:00.000-08:00

Is your dog healthy?
If you are a dog owner, you probably know how important it is to have a happy and healthy pet. Daily care, grooming, and attention go a long way in keeping many health problems at bay. Taking appropriate steps to prevent diseases will save you and your pet a lot of concern and trouble.

It is a good idea to get your pet inoculated and dewormed as per your veterinarian's advise. Contact the vet if you find any kind of irregularities in your dog. If an illness is detected earlier, there will be a better chance of getting it cured.

Here are some things you should look out for:
The Dog grows listless and depressed and shows a distinct lack of stamina.
The Dog stops eating and loses interest in food.
The Dog drinks too much water.
The Dog suffers from excessive vomiting and diarrhea.
The Dog keeps shaking its head or scratching its body.
The Dog loses its hair and develops open sores on its body.
The Dog shows stiff movements.
The Dog develops prominent lumps on its body.
The Dog has foul breath.
The Dog shows significant yellowish tartar deposits on its teeth.
The Dog has excessive discharge from its eyes or nose.
The Dog shows difficulty in breathing.
The Dog shows sudden aggressive tendencies.

If you think your pet is displaying any one of these signs, you probably need to contact your veterinarian.

Parasites that cause diseases in dogs.
One of the main problems that dog owners face is battling internal and external parasites that plague their pet.

Some external parasites are Fleas, Mites, Lice, and Ticks. If your dog is constantly scratching itself, particularly around the ears and the chest area, than it probably is infested. External parasites don't just make your pet embarrassing in polite society, they can damage its coat and lead up to all sorts of diseases, even prove fatal in some cases. Regular brushing and grooming can help control the presence of external parasites to an extent. Consult your veterinarian and he will advise you of a proper treatment to follow. Numerous sprays, shampoos, and medicinal washes are available in the market to combat external parasites. You will also need to spray your immediate surroundings to kill the parasite eggs and prevent the parasites from breeding.

Internal Parasites like Tapeworms, Heartworms, Roundworms, Hookworms, and Whipworms are equally damaging for your pet's health, causing anemia, internal bleeding, and death, and should be summarily dealt with. Following a regular de-worming routine and keeping your pet isolated from areas frequented by stray animals will certainly help.

Skin diseases in dogs
Skin diseases in dogs are frequently caused by the presence of external parasites. Mange, which is caused by mites, commonly comes in two forms – Demodectic Mange and Sarcoptic Mange. Both forms of mange are extremely unpleasant and serious, the Sarcoptic Mange especially so as it can be transferred to humans. If your dog shows signs of mange, it should be isolated from other dogs and especially from children and should receive treatment immediately. Treatment is usually in the form of injections, oral medication, ointments, and medicinal baths.

Rabies
Rabies, which is specific to mammals and which is transmitted through the saliva of the infected animal or by receiving a bite from the infected animal, is perhaps the most feared of the canine diseases as there is no treatment available and death is certain. Prevention is the only way to stop this illness. Make sure your pet is vaccinated against Rabies and keep your distance from un-vaccinated dogs and wild animals.

Canine Distemper, Parvovirus, Leptospirosis, and Parainfluenza
These diseases, although not fatal nowadays, are quite serious and damaging. Again, prevention is an option better chosen. Get your pet inoculated and keep it away from other dogs until all inoculations are complete.

With some proper care and precautions, you can protect your dog from illnesses and diseases, and have a well and healthy pet.

Exotic Pets

2009-12-10T11:10:00.000-08:00

There are a large number of species that can be termed exotic pets, including mammals, birds, reptiles, fish and invertebrates. The availability of many unusual species has led to more people considering keeping these animals in their homes, and tarantulas, iguanas, salamanders and snakes are all becoming more and more popular as pets. But before you buy that cute-looking frog or that furry spider, it is important that you consider the following points:

(Please note, many of the points below apply to all pets, not just exotic animals)

Many species are illegal in the UK, often due to the danger they may pose to other people or because of the animal's conservation status in the wild. Find out about any laws pertaining to your chosen species, and whether or not you will need a permit.

Find out everything there is to know about the species you are thinking of. Buy a good care guide, talk to your vet, surf the net and contact other people who have the same pet to find out the pros and cons.

How much space will your pet require or will it need the run of your house? If it needs regular exercise, make sure you can put aside enough time each day.

How long will your pet live? Some species of reptile may outlive you, so are you prepared to spend the whole of your life looking after it?

Can you handle your pet? Tarantulas may bite if they feel threatened and release hairs that can irritate your skin and eyes. Some amphibians can also be difficult to handle due to their coating of protective slime.

It may be difficult to find a vet who has experience with exotic pets. Find out if there is one local to you. Children and exotic pets rarely mix.

Some species are potentially dangerous to people and other animals. If you have other pets, be sure that they will get on with an exotic species.

Exotic pets have specific dietary requirements, and may need to be fed with foods that you feel uncomfortable handling, such as frozen mice or live locusts.

Who will look after your pet if you go on holiday? It may not be as easy to find a willing pet-sitter for a tarantula as it would be for a cute little kitten.

Some species carry diseases. Reptiles, for example, can harbour salmonella.

Find out the maximum size that the species you are considering can grow to. Some pythons can grow to over 6ft.

The cost of accommodation, food and vet bills is likely to exceed the initial price of the pet, so think carefully about whether you are prepared for the expense.

Will your pet need company? Some species become stressed if kept alone, whereas others will prefer to be solitary.

Bird Cages vs. the Parrot Cage

2009-12-10T10:44:00.000-08:00

If you are like many people, you probably have not given a lot of thought to whether bird cages or a parrot cage are that much different. Choosing the right cage for your feathered friends definitely is a choice you will want to give some thought. The many different sizes and materials from which they are made is just one aspect of choosing the right one for your bird or birds. When choosing a parrot cage or bird cages, here are the considerations you will want to be sure you take into account.

The Sizes

First off you are going to need to think about the size, and what sort of bird you are going to purchase. If you want parakeets, then you can get by with a small cage, but that really depends on how many parakeets you are actually planning to keep. If you just have a single parakeet then you won't need a huge cage, but it still needs to be comfortable. Remember, this is the bird's home, and it needs to be quite comfortable in it's home.

Other types of small birds, such as finches, canaries, budgies, and lovebirds won't require a big cage, but they need to not feel as if they are cramped. The decision hinges on the number of birds that you wish to put in a cage, and if you're buying a baby parrot, make sure that the cage is big enough for when it grows and is much larger.

Your bird will be happier if the cage is the proper size for it's species and the amount of birds that you are keeping in it. It needs to be the proper size no matter what, and birds love interacting with people. Make sure that the cage is in a room in which people visit all the time, that way they get all the interaction they need. This is also a huge consideration when purchasing a cage. If you are in a small home you don't want you cage to be too large.

The Materials

Material is something that you need to look into when you are purchasing a cage, because they need to be steel or wrought iron. The reason for this is that if you have a weak material the bird will be able to chew right through it. If you have a parrot, then it is important to know that they are a lot stronger and a lot more intelligent, they may be able to just open the cage door depending on the complexity of the lock.

The best material is either a steel cage or a wrought iron cage. Avoiding wooden cages no matter how cute they may be is a good idea because they are more easily breached by the bird. Making sure the bird cages are made of materials that have not been painted is another aspect of purchasing a safe bird cage. Some paints can be poisonous to your bird.

You also need to make sure that the bird cages you purchase don't have bars that are too wide. Make sure that the bars are no more than half an inch apart, because if there is more space your bird will probably be able to waltz right out. Make sure the material isn't easily broken so that your bird won't just break the bars and wander out of the cage.

The Shape

There are many different types of bird cage, and they come in all different sizes. They could be square, they could be round, and they might even have a dome. You will find that a dome is good for the majority of birds because they enjoy being able to go up top and see what is going on in the household. Keep this in mind when you go shopping for a bird cage.

Small cages are generally going to be round or square and this does not matter a whole lot if the bird you are going to choose is a small bird. The main thing you want to ensure when purchasing bird cages is they are the proper fit for the bird. These are available in hanging types or with their own stand.

There are some cages that have play areas up top for the birds when they're out of the cage, and some cages actually have two stories. These are great for parakeets, cockatiels, and medium sized birds. Think about this if you have a lot of birds and require several cages.

Accessories

All bird cages should have easy access to the inside for cleaning and refilling food and water containers. They should also have a tray that removes easily for cleaning. There are many cages that the roof can be detached and this is very handy for cleaning. They should have perches for the birds to sit on and relax. These are easier on the bird's feet if they are made of wood.

Climbable and toys are almost a requirement for a bird's happiness. You will find that the majority of birds are very active and need to be able to entertain themselves. Swings are also a great addition for a bird cage, and some birds like to perch on the swings and squawk rather loudly.

Most importantly, make sure that your bird is happy in his or her cage. The cage is their home and you need to keep it clean at all times. I you do this then the bird will be very happy. Pick out a bird cage as if you were picking out a home for yourself.

Remove pet stains from carpet

2009-12-06T01:38:00.000-08:00

As well behaved as most of our pets are, accidents happen. Even with the best of training, every dog or cat makes a mess on the rug at least once in its lifetime. Thankfully, these messes can be cleaned up in no time with minimal or even no staining. If you’re thinking about tossing out your carpet because Fifi had herself a little accident, read on. Hopefully, some of the tips mentioned here will help you remove any unwanted pet stains.

If you happen to catch the accident just after it happens, act immediately. The first line of defense for stain fighting is to take steps to remedy the situation as soon as possible. Clean up any solid material with a paper towel and blot at the stain with clean paper towel or rag until no more of the stain can be lifted. After that, there are several remedies that might work. Vinegar is a wonderful all-purpose cleaner. It can be used full strength for heavy stains or for a lighter surface stain, it can be diluted in some warm water – one part vinegar to two parts of water. Pour the vinegar directly on the stain and blot until no more of the stain can be lifted. Always blot stains, don’t ever rub. Not only can rubbing cause the stain to spread, it can also weaken the fibers of your carpet, which can lead to tearing and bald spots. The room, and carpet in particular, may smell like vinegar for a day or two, but this will pass. Besides, compared to what the room might have smelled like soon after the accident, vinegar may be the preferable scent.

Hydrogen peroxide diluted with some warm water is another option. Like vinegar, this solution can be poured directly on the stain and blotted until the stain is lifted. Because this is bleach, however, you may want to test on a hidden area of your carpet to make sure there will be no discoloration.

Something else to try is a solution of a quarter cup of mild dishwashing liquid (one with no bleaches or alkalis) to one cup of warm water. Blot with a sponge or cloth until the stain is lifted. Rinse by blotting with cool water and dry with a towel.

Baking soda is also a good remover of pet stains. Pour the baking soda straight from the box onto the stain and coat the stain entirely. Let this sit for a couple of hours or two, it should draw the stain right out. When time is up, you should vacuum the baking soda, and the stain, out of the carpet.

For pet vomit stains, remove any solid matter and then+ cover the remaining stain with salt. Cover the salt with a towel and let sit for a couple of hours. This should absorb the stain right out of your carpet. You should vacuum after a couple of hours. If none of these solutions work, your local pet emporium should have some products that will do the trick or you can call in a professional carpet cleaner. Pet accidents shouldn’t be the death of your carpet and, in most cases, can be cleaned with items found in your kitchen pantry. With luck, the above-mentioned tips will help prolong the life of your carpet.

Dog Games

2009-12-06T00:49:00.000-08:00

Here are some great games that help your dog to use his brain and develop his senses, rather than just exercise his body. By playing these challenging games, your dog will be learning to listen to you, to concentrate and to improve his memory.

These games can be played in the house, in the garden, on walks, in fact anywhere!

Suggestions for games:

• Hide a toy or treat in the house or outside. Ask your dog to find it. You may need to help him a little. While you hide the toy, either move the dog so that he is out of sight or pretend to place the toy in several different places.

• Throw the toy into grass so that it is not visible. Send him to find it. Make the game more difficult by:

• Not sending your dog for a minute or so, so that he is less likely to remember the exact place.

• Calling your dog away from the toy and then sending him to find it.

• Calling your dog away, then doing something else, like asking him to sit or even fetch another toy, before sending him out to find the first toy.

• Inside the house, have a selection of boxes. They can be cardboard or perhaps empty (clean) margarine or ice-cream tubs. Hide a toy or treat under one of them. Either have your dog out of the room or, if he is watching, pretend to hide it under each. Send your dog to find it. He may knock the boxes over to get it, or he may prefer to indicate it by pawing at it. You can then lift it for him to gain his reward. This game can be made more difficult as detailed above. On a walk, drop a toy or treat onto the grass as you walk. Stop after one or two paces and call your dog to you. Send

him to find his reward. As he progresses with this game, you can take more steps away from it before calling your dog and sending him to find it. Whilst it is essential that games are fun, it is important to have some degree of control over your dog.

• Throw a toy away from your dog, but hold onto him. Then send him to get it. Make this game harder by throwing the toy and calling your dog away from it first, then sending him for it.

• Develop the game by throwing two toys in different directions and asking your dog to get one first, come hack to you and then get the second. Let him choose which he collects first.

• Teach your dog to collect a named toy.

• Throw out two toys and send him for one specific toy. He should bring this to you before you send him back for :he second toy.

• Make this game harder by throwing two toys, sending him for one, taking it from him, throwing it again and letting him get this, before sending him for the second toy.

Homemade Cat Food Recipes

2009-12-05T06:13:00.000-08:00

Try these homemade cat food recipes - they're easy for kids to make as a treat for your special cat.

Minnie's Morsels for Mature Cats

1 can sardines, packed in olive oil
1 cup whole grain bread crumbs
1 egg , beaten
1/2 teaspoon brewer's yeast (optional)

Pour contents of sardines in a medium bowl. Using a fork, mash into tiny pieces. Add remaining ingredients and mix well. Drop 1/4 teaspoon of mixture onto a greased cookie sheet. Bake in a 325F oven for 7 minutes. Store in air tight container.

Tuna Treat Cat Food

1 6-ounce can of tuna
1 cup steamed chopped broccoli
1 teaspoon chicken broth
1 tablespoon boiled white rice

Mix all ingredients and serve cat food to your pet.

Salmon Snack for Cats

1 6-ounce can of salmon
1 cup cooked potato, cubed
1 teaspoon chicken broth
2 tablespoons cooked oatmeal

Combine ingredients and serve to your furry friend.

Chicken and Carrot Cat Food

1 cup of cooked chicken, diced
1 cup carrots, shredded
1 tablespoon boiled white rice

Combine all ingredients and serve to your feline.

Beefy Bonanza Cat Food Recipe

1/2 cup cooked beef, shredded
1/2 cup finely chopped celery
2 teaspoons beef broth
2 tablespoons Bulgar wheat

Soak Bulgar wheat in warm water for 20 minutes. Mix together shredded beef and chopped celery. Add beef broth and Bulgar wheat.

Serve to your cat.

Dog Cleanup Strategies

2009-12-05T05:25:00.000-08:00

Having a pet can be messy. In addition to the housetraining accidents, there is hair everywhere! Here are some tips for minimizing messes and cleaning up.

Hair:

* Brushing and combing your dog daily will help keep hair from showing up on clothing and furniture, especially during shedding season.
* Put an easy-to-wash dog blanket on chairs, couches or pet beds.
* Clean filters in dryers, air conditioners and furnaces regularly.
* On carpets and rugs, use a vacuum cleaner with both a beater bar and a brush.
* For hardwood floors, spray an anti-dust spray on the mop, let it settle and mop.
* Use damp paper towels or a damp cloth to wipe down counters or corners.
* Use a damp cloth, paper towel or rubber glove on upholstery, bedding and drapes. Rub in one direction only.
* Clothing: Tape rollers are best. Or, use wide packing or masking tape rolled sticky side out around your hand. Keep a tape roller in the car.
* Velour brushes also work well on clothing and upholstery. Rub in one direction to remove hair, rub in the other direction to remove hair from the brush.
* Washable items: Shake them out and use one of the above methods to remove most of the hair. "Dry clean" some items, such as cushions, in a dryer set on "air" along with a damp towel and fabric softener sheet.

Urine, Solid Waste and Vomit:

* Get to the spot ASAP. Clean or blot up what you can, using paper towels. Use a knife or piece of cardboard for solid waste.
* Do not use cleaning products with ammonia. They will attract your dog to the spot again! Use an all-purpose cleaner or dish soap for most accidents and rinse. When clean, wipe the spot with a rag or sponge dampened with white vinegar.
* For accidents on carpets, put a towel or multiple paper towels on the stain and stand on it, changing towels until you've soaked up as much wetness as possible. Then use a carpet cleaner or a little dish detergent in water. Blot, don't scrub, so you won't spread the stain. Rinse with a wet sponge and then soak with club soda for 10 minutes. Blot it up and place other paper or white cloth towels over the stain with something heavy, like books, on top and leave overnight.
* The next day, spray on an enzymatic bacteria odor neutralizer like Nature's Miracle. A laundry enzymatic pre-soak product also works well. The enzymatic product must soak as deeply as the urine. The treated area must remain wet and warm for 24 hours to really be effective. Cover the area with plastic to keep it from drying out.
* Launder urine from washable items by putting them through one washing machine cycle with a cup of vinegar and no detergent. Then wash them again as usual.
* Hardwood floors and porous concrete floors are very difficult to rid of urine odor. Use an odor remover to temporarily solve the problem. In severe cases, a thin coating of concrete may have to be poured on concrete floors. Hardwood floors may have to be sanded and/or bleached and the protective finish re-applied. Badly stained wood floors may have to have the wood replaced.
* Open containers of vinegar in the corners of the room help keep the room smelling fresh.
* Dogs have very sensitive stomachs and vomit at the slightest provocation. Feed your pet dog food without dyes (such as iron oxide) to avoid red or orange stains on your carpet.
* If soiling is a recurring problem, discuss the problem with your veterinarian. Your dog may have a medical condition.

Pet Insurance Tips

2009-12-04T22:33:00.000-08:00

With accounts of veterinary surgeons on the rise, if you love your pet how can you consider not having pet insurance to cover the costs of medical tests, x-rays, prescriptions and other medical expenses? As the travel insurance policies for individuals, you can buy policies in the short term company insurance for their pets. If you buy a pet at an early age, then it would be prudent to ensure the earliest possible because the probability that an insurance policy providing for the animal as the average age range is remote.

Insurance Plans specialized in providing health care for animals began in the eighties at the end of the line with the increase of the owner of an animal. That assurance has become more popular, chances are that your veterinary surgeon to know and accept the various insurance programs for pets currently available. As for the insurance man are the different types of insurance for pets, including liability insurance, which protects you if someone harm animals, destroy property, cause accidents, and so on.

In fact, it is possible to arrange an insurance policy for all expenses of the company where all the doctors, accidents, injuries or damage costs will be paid by the insurance company. With so many different types of policy and now the companies in this sector of health insurance, it becomes clear why talk to your vet about his recommendations make sense. Most insurance policies for animal care now serves accidents, cuts and dental work.

As for the insurance man, pet insurance pays the provider of health care and in this case the veterinarian, according to a schedule established by the insurance company. Pet Insurance has become more expensive in recent years along its popularity and the owners of pets the most loving do almost anything for the welfare of your pet. Do not buy insurance for pets may seem like an easy way to reduce costs, but one visit to the Veterans of something serious enough to actually purchase just a month seems like a good idea.

Too often added to the policy which is the amount that the owner of the animal must be paid before any claim can be processed and, if the amount due is less than this figure then there is nothing for the insurance company to pay what helps to reduce small claims and keep premiums down. The first pet insurance plans to ensure that treatment costs are covered, up to a limit set annually for the duration of the animal requires treatment for veterans. Although financial investigations on the subject have shown that pet insurance can be a minefield for owners and its complexity is deterring some people to take cover.

Something to consider if you are looking for in your insurance premiums for pets are affected by age, health and breed of your pet and animal type and can be more complicated that typical human health insurance. To offset the likely costs of health later in life of an animal from an insurance plan for pets as soon as possible is usually the best way to avoid financial problems as they age.

Dog's Excessive Barking

2009-12-04T08:47:00.000-08:00

If you are a dog owner, chances are you might be aware how frustrating it is to control your dog’s behavior. Some dogs get too aggressive to the point that they become disturbing and irritating to your family and your neighborhood, while others bark excessively for some weird reasons. Many dog owners find themselves clueless and unsure as to what must be done to solve this behavior.

Here are a few tips to help you solve your bestfriend’s nuisance barking:

The primary thing you need to check is if you’re giving your k9 all the things and necessities he needs. Barking is a natural behavior among dogs and they usually bark to communicate something with you. If their needs are not being met, the barking might be a cry or signal that he longs for your care and assistance. Always ensure that you give them the right amount of food and water everyday. You also have to clean after your dog.

Dogs could be barking because of irritation. Flea or tick infestations and skin allergies can cause your dog to make excessive noise. Taking your dog to a veterinarian can help you determine whether or not he is healthy and free from any canine diseases.

If your beloved pet barks a great deal, you might observe that they are either bored or energetic. Don’t let your dog be confined inside your house, instead, take him outside where he can play and interact with other dogs as often as you can. You can also train him using tools such as dog training crates and dog exercise pens. A dog that is properly trained to socialize with people and other animals will not bark excessively. Training your dog is a great way to improve his physical and mental stimulation. Dogs naturally enjoy the outdoor and like to experience new things. The barking problem may be solved when the dog is taken on regular walks.

By and large, dogs bark for they beg for a little attention. So don’t be rude. Never yell, hit or scold your dog when they are barking. These kinds of reaction can aggravate your k9’s anxiety. If your dog barks because he is stressed or lonely then your yelling is just going to confuse and hurt him.

Along with these behavior modification methods, you may also try using some gadgets that are designed to address the barking. You can buy bark control collar and other training collar equipment that will quickly train your canine to stop his nuisance barking.

Soft Sweaters for Dogs

2009-12-04T08:25:00.000-08:00

Winter season brings in a sultry mood around, as it gets so wet and damp around, especially if it is snowing where you live You can get some great bright looking soft sweaters for dogs with vibrant colors to change the mood of your furry pet

Winter season brings in a sultry mood around, as it gets so wet and damp around, especially if it is snowing where you live. You can get some great bright looking soft sweaters for dogs with vibrant colors to change the mood of your furry pet. A good warm sweater can be available at a low price. If you would like to go for stylish designer ones, then they can be found in a slightly higher price range. Soft sweaters for dogs will surely brighten up a dull day. With these winter sweaters for your pooch, you don?t have to worry about how to take your dog out for a walk in the winter. Sweaters for your little doggy will surely protect your pet from the cold and wind. The sweaters are made from materials that are chosen keeping in mind your dog?s likings.

It is important to choose the right kind of sweater for your dog to keep him warm and cozy. Before one buys soft sweaters for dogs, he should keep in mind various points to help a dog parent buy the right sweater. When choosing particular soft sweaters for dogs or a coat for winter wear for your furry friend, make sure it has a soft lining to it. Just an outer show is not good enough.

Soft sweaters for dogs are very long lasting and can sustain wear and tear of the material. The weavers prepare sweaters of a single shade, checks or even patterns in bright colors that can make your little pets look very attractive. The designers ensure that your pet feels proud in wearing them. Once your pet wears the sweater he may not like to take it out even when he has to go for a bath.

You get a wide range of woolens and furry jackets and soft sweaters for dogs that not only keep your doggie warm and comfortable in the chilling winters but also make them feel a million dollars. Like humans, even dogs can get frostbitten, but warm jackets and sweaters keep your pet warm and thus safe. This is especially helpful for those dogs that are blessed with short hair and thin fur. So, irrespective of the breed of pet dog you own, you can enjoy shopping through the Internet, you can find online shops that offer you a wide selection of winter sweaters for both small and large dogs. Avail of the opportunity of selecting the best possible soft sweaters for dogs and make your pet feel warm and comfortable during the harsh winters.

Wool sweaters in particular can be very comfortable for your dog as apart from being warm, they are very soft and there is very little chance of any adverse reaction. Small dogs generally need wool sweaters as they usually have very little protective fur. Even big dogs that have short hair will need wool sweaters. Winter is a time when dogs are susceptible to colds and this can be dangerous; therefore, soft sweaters for dogs are not just a luxury, but a necessity!

The History of Dogs

2009-12-01T10:18:00.000-08:00

Dogs belong to the Canid family (Canidae).

Dogs first appeared about 40 million years ago, before any other carnivore families like bears or cats.

Carnivores have a pair of teeth similar to blades that are called carnassials. These teeth are like scissors and can slice through skin and muscle.

Thirty five living species are included in the Canid family tree. There are three main groups.

1. South American foxes
2. Wolves, including jackals, wolves, coyotes, and dogs
3. Foxes including the red fox and his relatives.
The dog that we commonly know is the closest kin to the gray wolf.

There is genetic evidence and fossils that confirm that all dogs are the direct descendants of wolves. Skeletons of the earliest dogs and their wolf cousins are very hard to find differences.

There are around 400 domestic breeds of dogs and they all belong to the same species, Canis familiaris.

A group that can successfully reproduce with one another is known as a species. A sub-group of the species is a breed. This has been made by human interaction. All individuals in a breed can reproduce with each other, but the features of the breed can be altered or lost when one breed is crossed with another.

Fossil records show there are three main groups of dogs and they have been around for many years. Some have become extinct.

Group one came from North America around 40 million years ago. These dogs looked like a mix of a weasel and a fox from fossil evidence. They became extinct around 15 million years ago. They were called Hesperocyon, which means “western dog”.

Group two were larger and looked similar to hyena’s with big jaw muscles and strong teeth. They began around 34 million years ago and became extinct around 2.5 million years ago. They were called borophagines.

Group three called the canines includes the dogs we know today. This group is first seen in fossils from North America around 7 million years ago.

Facts About Diabetes in Dogs

2009-12-01T09:59:00.000-08:00

If you think dogs can't get the same illnesses and diseases as humans, then you are barking up the wrong tree because your dog can get any illness that a human would. Diabetes is not different in dogs than it is in humans because your dog can still suffer a lot.

This can be a life threatening disease in dogs and if you don't catch the symptoms right away you could be putting your pet at risk. Here are a few facts that you need to know about diabetes in dogs.

In dogs, diabetes is a disease that attacks the endocrine glands and makes them not function properly. As in the human world, there are two types of diabetes in dogs and they are diabetes insipidus and diabetes mellitus. Diabetes insipidus is the lack of vasopressin in your dog. Vasopressin is a hormone that controls the way your dog's kidneys take in water. Diabetes mellitus is when the dog's body can not produce insulin.

Now that you have a slight understanding about on the difference about the two types of diabetes in dogs, let's take the other type now. Diabetes mellitus is one of the most deadly diseases that your dog can get if you don't know the symptoms to catch it right away but it can be handled. There are 2 types of diabetes mellitus. Just like human disease of diabetes, you have type 1 and type 2. They are very similar to the affects that humans are dealing with every day.

Type 1 diabetes in dogs is also known as juvenile dog diabetes. It gets its name because this form of diabetes usually shows up when the dog is a younger dog, puppy to age 2 roughly.

Type 2 diabetes is about the same as humans because this disease usually comes into play when the dog gets older and their body can no longer produce the insulin that the dog needs to make its internal organs function. If your dog has this type of diabetes you have to give your dog insulin shots and make sure you check your pets blood sugar level so that your dogs insulin is low you can give them a shot.

No matter if your dog has type 1 or type 2 diabetes, your dog is worth the money and the time you spend on your dog because of the happiness that a pet brings to you and your family. A dog is a pet that is irreplaceable because of the loyalty and the companionship that a dog brings to your family. Take your time and try to understand about diabetes in dogs because it can make a world of difference in your dog's life.

Stop Dog Aggression

2009-12-01T09:37:00.000-08:00

It is natural to feel scared when your treasured pet turns aggressive. It may seem funny when your puppy shows aggression towards another puppy, but this can be a serious problem if it continues until you become desperate to stop dog aggression in your dearly loved pet.

It is important to think about the cause why this is occurring. Has your dog been well socialized? He seldom leaves the home or the backyard and even though he may have another dog as a mate and is fine with them, when he is out and sees another dog he becomes aggressive. So how do you stop dog aggression like this?

Step One
It is an important first step to have your puppy well socialised with people and other dogs. Find a Vet Clinic in your area that holds puppy classes and book in to a class so that your puppy becomes socialized. Take a 3 month course with your local dog obedience group once your puppy is 3 months old. Your dog will not only learn some basic skills, but will also be better socialized with other people and dogs, while paying attention to your directions.

If you want to stop dog aggression, you can’t just start, then stop this activity. I was obedience training my Cavalier King Charles Spaniels, and was also using the clicker training method with the young dog Cooper. However, I stopped going to dog obedience
and did all my clicker training at home, as he got better at it. Twelve months later if he even saw another dog at the Vet he would bark madly (not really aggressively, but nevertheless it was a real nuisance), so I took him back to dog obedience for a short period to socialise him again. Ever few months I would take him back to dog obedience.

Why You Get Dog Aggression and How to Stop It
To stop dog aggression you will probably need to neuter a male dog. Male hormones play havoc in a dog and will make him more aggressive. If your dog is guarding you, your property or his territory he is likely to be aggressive.

You should de-sex your dog (unless you want to show him or breed from him) once he begins to be aggressive towards other dogs. Likewise, if your dog is being protective, you want him to be this way, but you also want him to obey you and you need to be able to stop dog aggression if necessary.

Having a well trained dog is the solution. Act like the alpha being, the controller, the leader; once your dog recognises this, he will follow and obey you. Even a soft growl is a form of aggression and must be stopped immediately. Don’t depend on the verbal command of ‘No’ to have any effect in an aggressive situation. However a growl with your teeth bared could get a good response and stop dog aggression, if it is done in the early days of him exhibiting aggressive tendencies. However, you should not have eye contact with a dog if it is acting very aggressively and therefore should not try growling yourself.

Stop Dog Aggression Tips
It could also be a good plan to use a muzzle or one of the special leads and mouth restrainers that are obtainable. These special training products are not cruel and will stop the dog from biting. Try some of these tools and when you are positive your dog is reliable when on a lead, then you can remove them; it is a good way to stop dog aggression.

Try distracting your dog with food to stop dog aggression; this can work well, especially if he has been trained using food rewards. Give a directive to get his attention; once he is looking at you let him see (and he will also smell) the food. The moment you get his attention, give him his food reward. Give another directive straight away and throw the food on the ground so he has to hunt for it. He will begin to concentrate on you more than the other dog once he has the food reward. Repeat this process a few times until he has his mind entirely on you and the reward. To understand better there is a book covering how to stop dog aggression to help you.

Aggression tendencies will disappear in most dogs, if you show strong leadership qualities as soon as you notice any sign of aggression. But you could have great difficulties with the breeds of dogs that are ‘hard wired’ to be aggressive e.g. Rottweilers, Dobermans and Pit Bull Terriers. Don’t put off getting a professional trainer to help you if you cannot manage yourself.

The Right Pet for You

2009-12-01T09:14:00.000-08:00

Are you in a pet search but you haven’t decided on what animal you should get? Read on for some tips to get you closer to being a pet owner.

If you are thinking about getting a pet or pet adoption, this means that you are ready to accept another soul in your life. Some say that animals are better than humans, so having a pet around might be an amazing experience for you. But what is the right pet for you? Are you a cat person or you would be better off with a dog or even with something bigger like a boar or a pig? This all depends on your personality and the amount of free time you have.

So, if you want a dog around, you have to know that this pet will need about 1 to 4 hours of your daily time. A dog needs to be taken out for strolls and it will also need you to play with it. Each breed of dog is different, some have more energy and will require more time spent outside- the case of the Terriers, while other dogs- such as the Basset - will only need a brief walk out. It is a good idea to have a house and a yard; otherwise your pet will most likely be unhappy.

If you have less time, but you would still love a pet, a cat might be the thing for you. Cats do not require much attention, they have their own personality and they do their program as they please, so you won’t have to bother too much about a cat. It will come to you to ask for attention at times and that is all you need to do. A cat will do well in an apartment.

If you like birds, you can get a few birds and they will also require very little attention and space, but you have to know that birds may become very noisy- so ask yourself if you want that noise every day. Forget about birds if you are a stressed person.

In case you are a person who likes the silence, the fish will be excellent pets for you. They will surely not do any noise and will have a soothing effect on you. Watching the fish swim can be a very relaxing activity.

Some people want an unusual pet, such as an iguana or even a pig. It’s not sufficient to want them, you also have to think about the fact that these pets have special needs and you will have to take care of them for the rest of their lives. However, the latest thing is a virtual pet, so you might want to consider getting one and spare you a few complicated chores that are involved in having a real pet. So, have you decided now?

Cleaning Dog Teeth

2009-12-01T08:46:00.000-08:00

Due to great veterinary medicine, our canines are living longer. This is due to preventative medicine which includes dog teeth cleaning. We never worried about cleaning out pet’s teeth until recent years, but just like in humans, we have found that oral health is very important to our health and to our pet's health.

Man’s best friend rarely gets cavities, but our furry friends do get gum disease and plaque build-up. There are products that can help reduce the build-up of tartar and thus help alleviate gum disease. Some of these products are put into their daily drinking water and your pet never suspects a thing. Another way to alleviate gum disease is to brush your dog’s teeth at least four times a week, if not daily. Nothing helps fight tartar and plaque better than a good dog teeth cleaning.

Sometimes it is necessary for the veterinarian to perform a professional cleaning. If you have never experienced dog teeth cleaning; here are a few things you might want to know. First of all, it is not inexpensive, but many offices offer payment plans and the price varies depending on where you live. The price is generally somewhere in the range of $200-$500.

If teeth have to be extracted, the cost could be considerably more. During a dog teeth cleaning, your dog will have to be anesthetized, then x-rays of the mouth will be taken to determine the health of the teeth and bones in the mouth. Your canine baby will then receive antibacterial solution. The doctor or technician will then use an ultrasonic scaler to remove calculus above and below the gum.

All teeth are then inspected for gum disease. The teeth are then polished, more antibacterial solution is applied; and basically this is a typical dog teeth cleaning. Of course everything is recorded within a dental chart, just like for humans, and follow-up appointments are scheduled.

Although a dog teeth cleaning is generally very safe, you have to weigh the benefits against the anesthesia risks. This is very important especially if you have an elderly dog or a dog in questionable health.

There are very effective alternatives which are safe with respect to dog teeth cleaning. Gels and sprays can be used quite effectively for removing and keeping tartar from building up on dog teeth. These gels and sprays for cleaning dog teeth are completely safe and have no side effects whatsoever for dogs. They are quite inexpensive also compared to the high cost of dental scaling performed at the vets office. Additionally, these products word very well for older dogs who should never undergo unnecessary anesthesia procedures.

Although the dog teeth cleaning products do not act immediately for removing tartar, their correct and continued use for a month or two will remove even the most stubborn of tartar buildups. Best of all, with continued and regular maintenance treatments 3 or 4 times per week, the teeth will remain tartar free from most breeds of dogs.

Always check with your vet on what he or she suggests for keeping your dogs teeth clean.

Heart Disease in Cats

2009-11-30T09:06:00.000-08:00

Cats, as most people know, are extremely stoic animals. It is very rare that a cat will complain about pain or discomfort. This may seem like a desirable trait to some, but in fact, it makes it much more difficult to determine whether or not the cat needs medical attention. Luckily, our feline companions do not seem to be prone to the myriad of diseases that dogs seem to be. However, they can acquire their fair share of medical problems. For example, one of the more common heart diseases in cats is known as feline hypertrophic cardiomyopathy (FHCM), a serious and progressive disease of the heart muscle.

The heart is a phenomenal organ and is quite possibly the most important organ in the body. It acts as a central pump, moving oxygen and nutrient-carrying blood from the lungs to the rest of the body.

The blood moves around the body in a circuit that is controlled by the pumping of the heart, making some vital stops along the way. The heart has four basic chambers, the right and left atrium, and the right and left ventricle. When the muscles in the right and left atrium are contracting, they push the blood into their respective ventricles. The ventricles have thick muscular walls, as they are responsible for pumping blood to distant areas of the body. When the muscles of the right ventricle contract, the blood in the chamber is pushed to the lungs, where the oxygen is taken up by the red blood cells. This blood then returns to the left atrium and subsequently the left ventricle, where another contraction pushes the blood to the rest of the body. Other organs, such as the brain, kidney, stomach, and liver, receive this oxygen-containing blood. This circuit is continuous as long as the heart keeps pumping.

Heart disease is divided into two categories: congenital (diseases that are present at birth) and acquired (diseases that develop later in life). When something goes wrong with the heart, there are a number of things that can be the source of the problem. Valves in the heart, which regulate blood flow between the chambers, can be leaky or unable to open wide enough. There can be holes present in the muscle walls between the chambers or between the major vessels. The muscle walls can become damaged or changed for several reasons. Any of these can cause changes to the amount of blood that is circulating around the body, and if severe enough, the disease will present itself in some characteristic symptoms, such as trouble breathing and fainting.

In cats, feline hypertrophic cardiomyopathy is a disease of the heart muscle. There is no definitive cause for this disease, but it is known to often be associated with high blood pressure or hyperthyroidism. In the case of FHCM, the muscle of the left ventricle becomes thickened and stiff so that it cannot be easily fill with blood. The condition can be compared to a balloon – a fresh new balloon fills easily with air as it stretches, while an old and stiff balloon does not fill as well, because it does not stretch. If the left ventricle of the heart has trouble filling with blood, there is less volume of blood in the chamber before the next contraction, and as a result, less blood is pumped around the body with each heart beat. When there is not enough oxygen-rich blood reaching the brain, episodes of fainting can occur. In addition, if blood is not being pumped out to the body and starts backing up in the heart, the increased pressure causes fluid to leak into the lungs making it difficult for the cat to breath.

FHCM is a condition that affects mainly middle aged cats, although younger cats can also be affected. It is much more common in males than females, and seems to be more prevalent in Persians and Maine Coons.

Symptoms
Symptoms of this disease include loss of appetite, lethargy or weakness, sudden development of difficulty breathing or fainting. It should be noted, however, that symptoms are not always present and the first sign of disease could be sudden death. Another consequence of the disease may be the formation of a blood clot that lodges in a blood vessel near the hind limbs, resulting in paralysis and loss of blood supply to the hind limbs. It is therefore important to bring your cat to your veterinarian every year for a thorough physical examination. Your veterinarian will check for heart murmurs and changes in heart rhythms that can suggest heart disease.

Diagnosis
FHCM is diagnosed with some very specific tests that may require referral to a cardiologist. Your veterinarian will first perform a thorough physical exam and will check the heart for murmurs and abnormal rhythms, as well as examine the entire body for other abnormalities. The blood will be tested for signs of other diseases that can be affecting the heart. X-rays of the chest will be taken to see if any of the heart chambers appear enlarged, and to determine whether or not the lungs are clear. An electrocardiogram (ECG) is a recording of the electrical activity of the heart and will tell your veterinarian about the abnormalities in the heart rhythm, and changes in the size of the chambers. Finally, an ultrasound of the heart can be performed by a cardiologist to visualize abnormalities and the ability of the heart to pump effectively.

Treatment
Before a treatment protocol is developed for your cat, thorough bloodwork must be performed to rule out other diseases that may be present, such as kidney failure. The functional ability of other organs is important in determining the medications that will be prescribed and the management of the heart disease.

The goal of treating FHCM, as it is a progressive disease (meaning that it gets worse over time), is to treat the symptoms and try to prevent the disease from progressing. The treatment protocol depends on the severity of the disease and the symptoms that the cat is experiencing. For example, if your cat is having difficulty breathing there are medications that help reduce the fluid load in the lungs to make breathing easier. Medications may also be prescribed to help the heart function better, by slowing down the heart rate and improve the muscle relaxation in the ventricle. A medication, such as aspirin, may also be recommended to prevent clots from forming if your cat is at risk. administration of this, however, must only be done following the instructions of your veterinarian.

Prognosis
Cats that are not showing symptoms of disease may live for years without problems. The longevity and quality of life for symptomatic cats, however, depends on the stage of the disease. Unfortunately, those with heart failure may live approximately one year or less. It is important to remember that, ultimately, it is the quality and not the quantity of life that counts.

Cat Pregnancy

2009-11-30T08:46:00.000-08:00

The entire development of the embryo is a fascinating study with scientific names for each stage, but for brevity and better understanding, we’ll concentrate here on the basics.After fertilization, the zygote (formed by the uniting of the sperm and the ovum) begins to form a somewhat ball-shaped mass of cells, known as the cell mass. Once the cell mass passes 16 cells, it is called the morula. The morula enters the uterus and plants itself in the uterine wall by secreting an enzyme which dissolves a pocket of tissue in the lining of the uterus to form a “cradle” for the morula. In the cat, the egg reaches the uterus in five days and implantation occurs approximately two weeks after fertilization. Also, since the cat ismultiparous (bearing more than one offspring during pregnancy), this process will be repeated simultaneously by multiple zygote-

morulas, possibly from matings with different male cats, or toms. Not all embryos will survive implantation – this is truly a case of “survival of the fittest.”

The embryo continues to develop, with the more highly evolved cells of the cranium and thoracic regions developing early. The embryo floats within a fluid filled cradle of two sacs, the amnion, and the allantois. Amniotic fluid contains water, protein, sugar, salts, fat, and traces of urea. The allantoic fluid, is filled mainly with excretory products from the fetus.

The placenta, the source of attachment between the maternal and fetal bloodstreams, develops later. The placenta is the “highway” over which oxygen, nutrients, and fetal waste interchange

Finally, when all the organic structures have been formed, the embryo becomes the fetus, and the first trimester is completed. From now until birth, the major activities will be development (the second trimester) and growth (the third trimester).

Care of the Cat During Pregnancy

If you are fostering a cat or have welcomed a stray pregnant queen into your home, you’ll need to have a veterinary “well-check.” It is important in the case of a stray, to have her tested for FeLV and FIV and to discuss the pros and cons of vaccination.

Assuming you have a healthy queen, the best care you can give her is a diet high in nutrients, along with plenty of fresh, clean water. During the final 20 or so days, she should be switched to a premium quality kitten food, and continued on it until after the kittens have been weaned. Feed small, frequent meals. Her abdomen is full of kittens, and she won’t be able to eat much at any one time. She should also be kept indoors at all times.

Impending Birth of Kittens

As your queen nears her time for giving birth, she will exhibit a few signs that will give you clues to the impending arrival of kittens. The first stage of labor lasts from 12 to 24 hours, and may include the following “symptoms:”

Nesting
She may start snooping around in closets and secluded areas for an appropriate place to bear her kittens. The time is ripe for you to prepare an area for her in a private place, with a box or basket lined with soft towels. She may decide instead to give birth on the cold, hard floor of your bathroom, but at least you have tried to accommodate her needs.
Increased affection
She may suddenly become very loving, and want to be near you at all times. Don’t be surprised though, if a previously affectionate cat becomes withdrawn and seeks solitude. Either personality change may be completely normal.
Decreased Activity.
Queenie may decide she’d rather sleep most of the time. She may also lose interest in food.
Milk Discharge from Nipples
Your cat’s nipples will have become enlarged and pink about the third week of pregnancy; 24 hours or so before birth, she may show a milky discharge. This discharge may come even earlier in cats that have given birth several times.
Drop in Temperature. The normal temperature in cats is between 100.4°F and 102.5° F. A dramatic drop in her rectal temperature is a sure indicator that birth is imminent

Organic Pet Care

2009-11-30T03:50:00.001-08:00

According to statistics almost 10 millions tons of waste products that are the direct byproducts of cats and dogs take a tremendous toll on our environment annually. Experts note that exposes excrement can contaminate both soil and groundwater adding disease-carrying bacteria and parasites to them, while refuse that is bagged tends to lay idle in landfills. In addition, pets are frequently exposed to harmful levels of toxins due to the food and toy/product choices we owners make on their behalf. In fact, a recent 2008 study suggests that the hazardous toxic exposure for dogs and cat’s was significantly greater and more varied than it was for their owners…and that they say should prompt loving pet parents to take immediate precautions and action.

* Consider crafting their toys: Store-bought products are often manufactured in foreign lands that use lead and cadmium, that can be harmful to animals, especially those that chew on them and ingest the components. Time takes its toll at toxic chemicals and metals affect the nervous system, red blood cells and bowels, which may even be fatal. Can’t make your own toys at home. Consider “homemade” products…..those manufactured in the U.S.A. You can create your own using organic cotton and/or wool stuffing using an old-school sewing machine. You can even transform your old jeans, towels, socks or other stealthy fabrics into healthy playthings for Fido.

· Go Organic: Organic foods aren’t just for humans anymore. In fact, some pet food tainted with melamine that resulted in the illness and death of many family pets, just two or so years ago, got the attention of lots of loving pet owners. And, while the threat is no longer immenintly there, the need to choose wisely “IS”. Organic pet food reduces your pet’s exposure to growth hormones, antibiotics, and synthetic fertilizers. In addition, some agricultural experts suggest that the byproducts of producing traditional pet food proteins can compromise the water and soil supply. Experts suggest opting for USDA approved organic pet foods, which meet the same standards as human organics. They also recommend talking with your Vet about how to make some homemade kibble and bits for your pet, always keeping in mind that cats and dogs need special and specific combinations of nutrients that are often determined by a variety of factors including animal type, breed, and age. Still, nutritionally balanced homemade meals fare far better than bagged or canned varieties, primarily because the digestive systems of cats and dogs tend to process fresh, raw foods better than they do cooked foods. Plus, a healthy diet of balances raw foods will build their bodies’ resistance to worms. Again, just make sure to discuss options and recipes with your Vet first.

· Properly discard of doo-doo: Consider taking excrement to mills that offer pet-specific systems that rely on enzymes and heat to eradicate dangerous pathogens from fecal matter and transform it into safe fertilizer. Another option is buring your pup’s poop away from gardens and water sources, keeping it clear of coming in potential contact with humans. It’s best to discard waste in biodegradable poop baggies comprised of cornstarch plastic, since these bags tend to be more sustainable than petroleum-based polyethylene.

Cat poo should always be bagged and placed in the trash since it can carry an infectious parasite that’s harmful to fetuses and those with weaker immune systems. Keep in mind that a large portion of the nearly 2 million tons of nonbiodegradable kitty litter that’s hauled off to landfills yearly contains quartz silica, which is recognized by the California Environmental Protection Agency as carcinogenic to pets and humans alike. Experts suggest biodegradable litter made from recycled newspaper, sawdust pellets, and corn. Another option: chemical-free, wheat based kitty litter available in natural food markets. For odor removal, simply dust kitty litter with baking soda.

· Protect your pet from pests: Experts note that flea and pest prevention can be potentially more harmful to pets and humans than the pest itself. In fact, many researches suggest that many animals have been injured, some fatally by the exposure to these pesky pesticides often found in flea collars, aerosol sprays and other pest control products. And, even The Environmental Protection Agency has deemed these products “dangerous” for kids, since they are the ones that most often play with pets and then rub their eyes, mouth, etc.

Instead of products containing carbaryl, propoxur and tetrachlorvinphos, consider sprinkling a hint of brewer’s years, fresh garlic or flaxseed oil in your pet’s food, since fleas hate the smell and taste. Experts add that fleas also hate the smell of pennyroyal, lavender, mint, rosemary, sweet woodruff, and ceder…so you may want to add some of these scents to a collar or bandana and place it around your pet’s neck or rub the dried herbs into your pet’s coat. Another option is an herbal flea collar sold at a host of health food stores and pet stores respectively. If fleas have already gotten to your pet, sprinkle all pet beds, carpets, and lounging areas with boric acid salts….known to kill flea larvae sand harming pets or people.

Contolling pets skin diseases

2009-11-30T03:26:00.000-08:00

What Are The Signs Of Skin Disease?

These includes:
• Itching, or pruritis. This is one of the most frequently seen signs and can range from intermittent minor irritation to a relentless, intense drive to scratch leading to
self-inflicted injuries.
• Hair loss, or alopecia. This is another very common sign of skin disease. It can be localised to a specific area, such as in ringworm or wet eczema, or could be generalised, affecting most of the body. The distribution of hair loss can also help the vet in reaching a diagnosis.
• Skin inflammation, or erythema, is often seen and can vary from a mild reddening of an area to a case where the whole animal feels hot to the touch.
• Scaly skin or a scurfy coat - can be localised or general.
• Excessively oily or excessively dry coat conditions.
• Skin malodour can often be one of the most common presenting symptoms, since this also affects the pet owner as well.

The presence or absence of these signs and their location can be very useful to the vet attempting to diagnose which skin disease is present.

What Can We Use To Treat Skin Disease?

Whilst many skin conditions are readily curable if the appropriate medications are used, others require long term or possibly life-long medications and management to minimise the affect on the sufferer.
Antibiotics and Antifungals
The skin is naturally covered by a massive population of bacteria and yeasts and should they be able to break through the superficial layer of skin an infection will result.
Antibiotics and antifungal agents are available through your veterinary surgeon.

Antihistamines and Glucocorticoids (steroids)

Allergies affecting the skin are very common and both these classes of drugs are often used under close veterinary supervision to help regulate the animals' allergic response.

Ectoparasiticides

Ectoparasiticides are medications that control parasites living on the animals' skin. Flea infestations are responsible for more cases of skin disease than anything else in the UK and so drugs that SUCCESSFULLY control or kill fleas are of vital importance. As well as using flea products on the pet it is also important to use products to treat the pets environment ie. the home, since this is where a flea spends 95% of its life.

Mange is a skin disease that is caused by mites that burrow under the skin. There are two types of mange that are common in the UK and it is important to know which is present as the treatments can differ. Diagnosis involves taking skin scrapes and examining these under a microscope to identify which mange mite is present. Your vet will be able to do this.

Lice are another common cause of skin disease. Lice are just visible to the naked eye and this gives rise to the term `walking dandruff` describing the slow, barely perceptible drift of these animals as they crawl through the pets' coat.
Ticks are also commonly seen in the UK and products are available for their control.

In dogs some families of roundworms can also cause skin disease, as the infective larvae are able to burrow directly into areas of exposed skin. Regular worming with products such as DRONTAL PLUS/XL, PANACUR PASTE or PANACUR GRANULES will prevent this.

Shampoos

A suitable shampoo would be valuable in most cases of skin disease though the practicalities of their use in cats are limiting.

There is a range of products on the market which include:
• Hypoallergenic shampoos (EPISOOTHE/DERMOCANIS). These will soothe inflamed areas of the skin and also moisturise the coat.
• Anti-scaling agents (SEBOCALM /SEBOMILD) which work by lifting the debris and damaged cells from the skin's surface.
• Tar shampoos (TARLITE) ,used in greasy skin conditions.

Coat Conditioning Sprays

These products are applied directly to the animals` coat and act as a moisturiser. (HUMILAC).

Diet

Food allergy or dietary intolerance is quite frequently seen affecting and can affect both dogs and cats. Many of today's commercial pet diets combine several sources of proteins and some of these can spark off an allergy which manifests itself as skin disease. Gluten intolerance can also be seen. Diagnosis depends on feeding the patient a `hypoallergenic' diet that contains a single or novel protein source for 4-6 weeks, in which time signs abate. By slowly adding in more protein sources into the diet and watching the animal for signs of relapse it is then possible to find out which protein is the cause of the problem.

Diets such as HILLS D/D, HILLS C/D and ROYAL CANIN SENSITIVITY CONTROL are ready made diets that can be used for some of these cases.

Essential Fatty Acid (EFA) Supplements

The essential fatty acids are a group of chemicals that are required to maintain a normal health status. There are several ways in which they help the skin's structure and function. Signs of deficiency of EFAs in the diet include a dull coat, scaling and also itching and inflammation.
EFA supplements such as VIACUTAN or EFAVET REGULAR are often used alongside other products to successfully control the signs of skin disease. They are often required over the longer term.

Cat Communication

2009-11-30T03:06:00.000-08:00

Cats may not be able to speak English but they do have many other ways in which they can 'talk' to you. Cats are cognitive animals, they solve problems just like any other highly developed species. Cats can and will communicate with you if you allow them to express themselves, talk back to them and try to understand what they are saying. Learn what your cat's different signals mean so that you and your cat can communicate regularly. This will not only improve the bond with your cat and keep your cat happy, but it will also allow you to better read your cat's signals so you know when your cat wants to play or just wants to be left alone!

Tails
Tails are probably one of the best communication indicators that cats have. One can almost read every cat feeling and thought by looking at his/her tail.

Tail arched and puffed out or bristled - your cat is scared or fearful and is ready to attack or defend itself. The bristling is instinctual as it makes the cat look larger.
Tail straight up in the air and fully puffed out or bristled - your cat is angered, aggressive and ready to attack.
Tail straight up in the air and quivering a bit - your cat's tail moves this way when spraying urine to mark territory; however, once your cat is spayed or neutered he/she will continue to move his/her tail this way (without any spray or urine being excreted) when you greet him/her. This is your cats way of saying, 'hi, it's your loving cat!'
Tail straight up and unmoving - an unabashed greeting. This is what a mother cat does to her kitten to tell him/her to inspect her rear.
Tail straight up but the tip tilted to one side - your cat is very interested and intrigued by something; your cat is happy and friendly.
Tail straight up or just slightly raised and curved like a question mark - your cat is very excited and interested in something.
Tail curved down and then back up again near the tip - your cat is very relaxed and content.
Tail still but tip of tail quivering or twitching - your cat is mildly irritated. Your cat may attack if the twitching becomes violent enough.
Tail swishing from side to side rapidly or violently - your cat is about to attack something, this is seen during fights and play time. This is not the same as tail wagging in dogs.
Tail held to one side - your cat is giving a sexual invitation (generally only females in heat do this).
Tail held low and puffed out or bristled - your cat is intensely afraid.
Tail held low and tucked between the hind legs - your cat is showing his submission or defeat.

Ears
Cats ears are another way that a cat expresses his/her emotions.

Ears pointing forward and slightly outward - your cat is relaxed and happy.
Ears very straight up and forward - your cat is listening to something that is intriguing.
Ears twitching nervously - your cat is agitated and nervous.
Ears flat against the head - your cat is frightened and may attack (this is instinctual as to protect the ears during a fight).
Ears back or in between alert and defensive position - your cat is aggressive and may attack.

Back/Fur
In general a cat's body fur remains fairly consistent; however, if you notice your cat arching his or her back and bristling you can rest assured that your cat is frightened and on the defensive. Your cat may attack at this point.

Meowing
Cats can make over 100 different vocal sounds (dogs can only make 10). These sounds encompasses a variety of meows, purrs, gurgles, and eeps which occur in a variety of tones and octaves and can mean a plethora of things. The more you talk to your cat, the more your cat will talk back and extend his/her 'vocabulary'. And a good owner will learn over time what his/her cat means by each of his/her vocal sounds. By listening to your cat and talking back, eventually you and your cat can start to 'talk' back and forth to each other with understanding. This will help the bond between you and your cat grow and entice your cat to become even more expressive.

Purring
It is still not known why cats purr. Some theories on the origin of purring include 1) the possession of false vocal cords 2) the contraction of laryngeal muscles 3) blood flow that is amplified by the diaphragm. Whatever the cause of purring a cat purrs when he or she is generally happy; although, some cats are known to only purr when they are ill. However, most cat owners will attest to the fact that their cats only purr when the are content or happy.

Growling/Hissing
Growling and or hissing means only one thing - your cat means business and wants you to back off. If your cat growls or hisses at you don't push the issue or you will be attacked.

Pupils
Cat's pupils for the most part change with the amount of the light in the room. However, if your cat become very aroused, excited or angered his/her pupils will become greatly enlarged regardless of the amount of light in the room.

Eyes
Your cats eyes can also tell you a lot about what kitty is thinking:

Wide open eyes - your cat is awake and ready to go
Wide open eyes with a little sparkle - your cat is feeling a little mischievous
Half closed eyes - your kitty is relaxed and ready for a cat nap! This can also mean your cat is ill if the eyes are like this on a consistent basis, even when awake.
Closed eyes - your cat is napping, obviously.
Winking/Blinking - A long slow blink means that your cat is content and relaxed.

Other Behaviors
Rolling on his/her back and exposing the belly - your cat is letting you know that he/she totally trusts you as he/she is exposing the most vulnerable part of the body. This doesn't necessarily mean that your cat wants a belly rub, just that he/she is totally comfortable with you.

Kneading - this stems from 'milk threading' that kittens do. Kittens knead their mother's belly to stimulate milk production. In doing this to you your cat is not only expressing his/her love for you as a mother-figure but also remembering the happy feelings that used to occur when the mother was kneaded.

Snoring - if your cat snores when he/she sleeps he/she is totally relaxed!

Sniffing - cats sniff each other in the wild to say hello and get to know each other. If your cat sniffs your face consider it a greeting and a way of showing that your cat trusts and likes you. Many owners even get down on the floor (face level with their cats) and touch noses when they greet.

Best Dogs For City Life

2009-11-27T08:50:00.000-08:00

Keeping a dog in an apartment or house is not as easy as one would think. There are many factors to consider, such as the size and locality of your house or apartment, the breed of the canine, its needs and requirements. And then of course there is the process of potty training involved, since the last thing you want to clean is doggy litter all over your abode after along days work.

Keeping a dog in your city home is a huge responsibility. You have to make sure you keep you pet healthy and happy. Keep in mind the fact that city houses are generally very small with limited space, so breeds that are big and built for outdoor activities will not be able to live happily.

Below is a list of dogs that are meant for a life in the city. Of course most city dogs are small in size and do not provide much in terms of real protection. However, their loyalty and companionship make keeping them worthwhile.

Pugs:
Pugs are an all time favorite with city dwellers since they are affectionate, well behaved and have a coat of short hair that does not require much maintenance. They do not require much exercise; a walk around the block will suffice. They are quite sedentary and can weigh up to 25 pounds, but they make interaction quite pleasurable.

Boston Terrier, Boxers, French Bulldogs:
Other city favorites include Boston terrier, Boxers and French Bulldogs. Although boxers are bigger than the others, all of them happily spend the day napping peacefully in a quiet house, and are satisfied with a quick jaunt around the block once or twice a day. These city favorites provide the much-needed loyalty and companionship one looks for after a stressful day at the office.

Sausage Dog:
The Dachshund or sausage dog is another small dog ideal for city houses. This dog is well tempered and great with children. It is quite energetic for its size, but expends its energy running around the apartment or condo.

Basenji:
Owning a Basenji is like owning a cat, mainly because it hardly ever barks. This dog is great for people in apartment buildings that have strict rules about keeping noisy dogs that may offend neighbors. Its small size and obsession with keeping itself clean quality the Basenji as a good breed for the city.

Chihuahua and Pomeranian:
The Chihuahua and Pomeranian can also make perfect city dogs because they hardly require any exercise and are small enough to be carried anywhere in a bag. These gentle dogs are easy to train and clean up, and do not require much living space.

Shih Tzu:
Shih Tzu is another breed suited for city life, because it is small in size, easy to train and very smart. They will require a daily walk however, and regular grooming.

Schipperke:
The Schipperke is a less common dog but great for apartment or condo living. Weighing about 10 to 18 pounds, this active small black god with a docked tail is very entertaining and makes a faithful companion. However, a quick jaunt around the neighborhood is a must for this fur ball to help stretch its legs and get some fresh air.

If a larger breed is what you have in mind, there are a few types that can fit the bill, but each has its own set of challenges. Mastiff and Newfoundland are sedentary dogs that do not require much exercise, but they usually weigh up to 100 pounds. Another aspect to consider is their drool. These dogs slobber over furniture and spread their drool over the apartment. The Newfoundland also has a long thick coat that needs regular grooming to keep it shiny and tangle free.

Pet Vaccinations

2009-11-26T12:03:00.000-08:00

One of the biggest controversies in companion animal medicine today surrounds the use of vaccinations in companion animals. Vaccines were developed initially to protect animals against deadly contagious diseases. Many diseases that were fairly common such as canine distemper, canine parvo, and feline panleukopenia are seen much less frequently today as a result of the intense efforts by the veterinary profession to vaccinate against them. In the case of rabies, the effort to routinely vaccinate dogs that began in the 1950s also dramatically reduced the incidence of cases of human rabies in this country. In some cases, vaccinations have been wildly successful in decreasing, if not practically eliminating the incidence of some diseases.
In small animal medicine, vaccines have traditionally been developed against diseases caused by viruses, bacteria and fungi. In newer developments, vaccines have been developed against protozoans like Giardia as well. Now it seems that vaccines are developed almost routinely in response to diseases regardless of how common they are or whether or not they have a fatal outcome. In fact, vaccine use is so widespread that most veterinary practices send reminder cards to clients to schedule appointments for their pets based solely on their vaccination schedule. Although it was well known that vaccines do cause reactions or have side effects, until recently it was thought that they were fairly rare, minor and treatable when they occurred, and far outweighed by their benefits. It is now believed that reactions may be more common and serious, and because of this concern, the debate has heated up about the judicious and appropriate use of vaccination.

How do vaccines work?
Vaccination, or active immunization, refers to the production of an active immune response in the body. Vaccination works by stimulating the immune system with either a weakened (modified-live or attenuated) or killed form of the disease organism itself. Vaccines are thus classified as modified-live or killed. The weakened or killed disease organism is referred to as an antigen. The body's reaction to the introduction of the foreign antigen in the form of a vaccine injection is to mount a humoral (antibodies or immunoglobulins) or cell-mediated response. This is the defense system the body normally uses against disease. When the body encounters the real disease later on, it is already prepared to defend itself because of the prior exposure to the vaccine strain of disease. (It is important that the vaccine strain of disease closely match the actual disease strain.) If vaccination was successful in preparing the immune system, the range of response to infection can range from no clinical symptoms at all to mild disease.
Immune responses that are stimulated by modified-live vaccines occur faster and last longer than those from killed vaccines. The drawback is that modified-live vaccines have been known to cause disease in weakened, immune-compromised or otherwise debilitated animals. Killed vaccines are technically safer because they can't cause disease, but the response takes longer and doesn't last as long. Killed vaccines also require the use of adjuvants which are irritants designed to prolong and enhance the immune response. These adjuvants are under investigation for a possible association with serious vaccine reactions.
Vaccination works best in a healthy, unstressed animal. It takes about 7 days for the body to produce its response. Although most vaccines are given by injection, there are intranasal vaccines that are given as eye and nose drops. Because these vaccines are following the natural route of infection of respiratory diseases, the immune response may be produced much faster, within 72 hours, and last longer.
It is important to understand that vaccines do not make sick animals well, cure disease or prevent animals from becoming infected with the disease organism. They prevent serious illness only if the vaccine is given far enough ahead of the disease exposure for the animal's own immune system to produce a quick defense before too much damage is done. Concurrent vaccination with or after disease exposure, a problem commonly encountered in shelters, is likely to result in vaccination failure.

The current vaccination controversy
There are several questions being asked about the costs/risks/benefits of vaccinating companion animals and the safety of the vaccines. Should animals be vaccinated against diseases that respond readily to therapy or that are not very common if it places the animal at risk for serious side effects? The questions most commonly asked relate specifically to:
1.The number of vaccines in use
The number of vaccines available to veterinarians has skyrocketed in the last thirty years. The antigens have been combined into multivalent vaccines that allow one convenient injection to be given against several diseases, such as the common 5 in 1 DHLPP (distemper, hepatitis, leptospirosis, parainfluenza, parvo) dog vaccine. Questions have been raised about the effectiveness of these vaccines as well as the need for all the various components. Some other canine vaccines include Corona, Lyme, Heartworm, Bordetella, Ringworm, and Giardia.
2.The need to vaccinate against mild diseases that respond readily to treatment
The use of some of the vaccines has been questioned when diseases such as corona are not only low in incidence, but also fairly mild, usually require no treatment or are easy to treat when they do occur.
3.The fact that some vaccines are limited in their effectiveness.
Some vaccines are limited in their effectiveness, such as the Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP) vaccine for cats, and not recommended for general use.
4.Vaccinations may interfere with later disease testing
Lyme Disease is difficult to diagnose in animals that have been vaccinated against the disease. It is also generally not as serious in dogs as it is in people. It responds readily to antibiotics in the early stages of the disease, yet treatment may be delayed because of the problems associated with diagnosis in vaccinated animals. Some veterinarians have questioned the need for a Lyme vaccine at all.
5.The need for annual boosters.
In human medicine many vaccines confer long term, if not lifelong immunity. The search for explanations about the need for annual boosters in animals led many to the conclusion that the manufacturer's recommendations may have been arbitrary and not based on duration of immunity studies at all. No one seemed to know exactly how long an animal would still be considered protected after vaccination. The studies now being conducted to find out how long an immune response can last in a vaccinated animal have revealed that many of the common vaccines confer "immunity" for several years if properly administered. In some cases, the titer may be taken instead of giving a booster. A titer is a blood test that will reveal the level of antibodies found in the blood. This functions as a measure of the immune response, although some would argue that the only true test of immunity is to "challenge" the animal with the disease and see if the animal becomes ill.
6.The safety of the vaccines .
The debate about the safety of vaccines became very heated when a possible link between cat vaccinations and a certain form of a deadly cancer known as fibrosarcoma was discovered. It was also suspected that autoimmune hemolytic anemia in some dogs might have one of its links to vaccinations. Intensified research into the production of safer vaccines began largely as a result of the concerns about these two serious problems. In the meantime, veterinary immunologists, epidemiologists, internists and research specialists are examining the way vaccinations are given and proposing new protocols.

Games To Train Your Dog

2009-11-26T01:05:00.000-08:00

There are many reasons to play games with your dog. For one most important reason is, it will strengthen your relationship. People who regularly play with their dog develop understanding, respect and communication with their dog. Games are activities you do with your dog that require the two of you to communicate and work together in some way.Dogs are social creatures, playing game is an important element in developing social relationships. Playing games is a fundamental way of “modeling” a real life. You can teach a dog to obey by playing games that make following your instructions fun.

Besides that, it will keep the dog from getting bored, which will keep him from things you don’t want him doing, and make him healthier.

Games To Play:

1. Hide and Seek Put your dog on a sit or down position to wait. Then you go and hide in another room or behind a door. Call him when you are ready. Act very excited and give him a treat when he successfully found you. Start with easy place and slowly move to more difficult to find places. This is fun and will also teach your dog to wait until called.

2. Fetch Some dogs are natural fetchers, others are not. But it can be trained and have fun. Start by throwing a toy/ball or stick to shorter distance for a start, and command “fetch”. When he manage to fetch it, praise and reward him a lot, eventually he will know the game. Also, practice “drop it” in this “fetch” game. If your dog refuses to return the ball, which is quite common, or drops it too far away, end the game in disgust.

3. Drop It One way to train “drop it” is to give the dog large item to hold, then offer a very desirable treat for exchange. Wait patiently until the dog notice the attractive treat, and drop the thing and exchange for the treat. If the dog picks it up again, try another exchange and practice again. When the dog is dropping the toy regularly, start giving the cute “drop it” before each treat.

4. Clean Up Your Toys Get a box to collect a number of toys. Scatter a few toys on the floor. Through shaping and teasing, get the dog to pick up the items one at a time, and place them in your hand. Once the dog is lifting the items high enough to get your hand underneath to receive, you are well started. Reward each “gift” with a treat. This is “return for refund” game. Try different shapes of item which safe for your dog to pick up. Each item retrieved is dumped into the bucket. You will be surprised your dog will end up helping you to clean the house!

5. Find It! Put your dog in a down-stay position, show him the treat or his favorite toy, then let him watch you put it behind a door, a chair or under a towel. Then tell him to “Find it!” When he does, give him lots of praise. And of course, he gets to eat the treat. You can repeat this by varying the places and treats. Overtime, hide the treat where the dog can’t see it, like in another room. Release her, and let her get the treat. You can increase the distance, difficulty level. This is especially good for dogs that have learn “stay” but are nervous about having their people go out of sight.

6. Simon Says If you have the right attitude, you can make obedience training a game. Let your dog prove how clever she or he is by sitting when you say “sit”, lying down when you say “down”, etc. Try it when your eyes are closed, your back is to the dog, or you are in a different position like lying down or even standing on your head! For advance learner, can try mix up “drop it”, “take it/get it”, “hold it”, and “leave it”. You’ll be surprised with the results if trained properly and with patience.

7. Playing Soccer Need exercise? Did you know you can teach your dog to play soccer too? Start the game by gently kicking the ball along the ground toward your dog. Encourage him to get it. The ball is too big to pick up with his teeth, it will take him a few minutes to figure out that he must push it with his nose or bat it with his paws. Give him lots of praise as he begins to catch on. As he gets better at it, you can include more people in the game. For breeds too small to handle a soccer ball, soft rubber balls can be used.

8. Give Him Problem To Solve Boring dog? Put a treat inside a cardboard box and let your dog work to get it out. Make it easy at first — start with a box without a lid and let the dog see you put the treat in it. Work up to more difficult ones. Depending on your dog’s skill, you may end up with pieces of box all over the floor but you’ll have a very happy and busy dog throughout the process.

Eye Infections in Dogs

2009-11-26T00:19:00.000-08:00

An eye infection is a relatively general description of a medical condition that may result in discomfort, discharge and abnormal appearance of a dog's eyes and surrounding tissue.

Conjunctivitis

This is generally the most common type of eye infection seen regularly in dogs. Conjunctivitis is characterized by the inflammation of the portion of the eye called the conjunctiva. The conjunctiva is the thin, clear membrane that protects the eye as well as the inner eyelid. The cause of this condition is most commonly a viral infection, an allergic reaction, or a bacterial infection.

The most common bacteria that cause conjunctivitis are streptococci and staphylococci. In Allergic conjunctivitis, the cause may be any number of airborne irritants that are causing an allergic reaction. Conjunctivitis that is caused by a virus is usually a result of a respiratory infection, flu, or other viral conditions. Regardless of the specific cause, this is the condition that manifests with all of the general symptoms of an eye infection, without any secondary symptoms.

Blepharitis

Blepharitis is a condition that usually manifests as an inflammation of the eyelids. The most common cause of this condition is a bacterial infection, which causes the subsequent inflammation of the eyelid. Other causes include demodectic mites, sensitivity to the sun, trauma, and other eye diseases. Though this condition may affect humans as well as dogs, it is occasionally seen in cats and other mammals.

Ulcerative Keratitis

In the condition of Ulcerative Keratitis, a dog's eye is subject to inflammation of the cornea. This is usually characterized by specific erosions of the cornea, though may also manifest as ulcers. This condition can be caused by several factors, though is commonly caused by keratoconjunctivitis sicca.

The common name for keratoconjunctivitis sicca is “Dry Eye”, and is characterized by a deficiency of tears, usually caused by abnormalities in the tear ducts. Other causes of this condition include herpesvirus, trauma(where eye is punctured), other disease affecting the eyes/tear ducts, and facial nerve paralysis.

Juvenile Cellulitis (Puppy Strangles)

This is a condition that usually manifests as blisters around the eyes, in addition to blisters around the lips, mouth, nose and ears. These blisters will cause irritation to the eyes, resulting in many of the common symptoms of an eye infection. The blisters will eventually become ulcerated, and a dog will have other secondary symptoms, such as enlarged lymph glands and anorexia. This condition is caused by a bacterial infection.

4 Dog Training Tips

2009-11-26T00:03:00.000-08:00

There are many, many ways to approach training your dog. You could hire out a professional trainer (expensive...ouch!). You could enroll in a less expensive class (time-consuming...ugh!). Or you could carve out the time from your own busy schedule and do-it-yourself (can you spell commitment?).

I favor doing it yourself for a lot of reasons, not the least of which is that it's the best way to get to know your little best friend. But if you're doing it yourself, you definitely don't want to waste time or effort, right? So here are 4 time-crunching, zero-wasted-effort dog training tips that will work.

1) Keep Your Sessions Short

Your pup isn't like us. He can't "force" his attention on anything for very long. So you need to capture it quickly and work with it quickly. That means keeping your training sessions short...probably never really more than 10 minutes when you're starting out. You can compensate for the short time by having multiple sessions during the day or evening....think "mini-sessions." Then, when his attention span starts to stretch, you can stretch your sessions out too. Shorter sessions actually make for faster learning.

2) Keep Your Sessions Fun

Think about this for a second. Since both you and your dog have to go through the same training together anyway, why not make it fun?

Look for ways to catch your dog "doing it right" and pile on the praise when he does. That will be fun for him and his reaction will make it fun for you too. Be positive! Smile! Laugh! Set a "fun" tone. Then don't be surprised if both you and your dog start to look forward to your sessions together.

3) Hold Your Sessions In Different Locations

Many dog owners have been successful at getting their dogs to understand and obey them over a large range of commands. Then they see it all fall apart as soon as they go to a new location. It happened to me. I had trained up one of my best buddies to the point where he obeyed me almost perfectly. The problem was, I had only trained him inside my apartment and in a small adjacent side yard. Then the first time we went to the park, WOW, it was like I had a different dog!

You see, I'd been working him out in the same surroundings and when those surrounding changed, he thought the rules had changed too. So I learned my lesson and since that time have tried to train my pets in lots of different locations. After a while they learn that the rules are the same no matter where they are.

4) Make Your Sessions Consistent
It's probably hard to believe, but your dog really wants to know his place in your world...and he's happy for you to define it. You can define it more easily for him if you're consistent.

Don't vary your training too much in the beginning. Work your lessons in the same way, the same order. Train him in the basic fundamental commands until he starts to understand and obey. Once you've established that framework, you can add more commands and a little variety. This will give him a strong comfort level about what you expect from him...and once he knows that, he'll show steady improvement.

Keep in mind that every owner/pet pair is a unique combination. And for training to be successful, they have to find their own unique "rhythm." Using these dog training tips will help you find your rhythm quicker...so you and your pooch can build a strong bond that will last for years.

History of Cats

2009-11-23T04:25:00.000-08:00

Did you know that our domestic feline friends are believed to be direct descendents of the African wild cat and that cats were domesticated about 5000 years ago! During this time period mankind had began to settle down in villages and abandon the nomadic lifestyle, when vermin were began to become a nuisance with mountains of stored grain, fruits and vegetables. Canines were already mans companion but were no help in protecting stored food since they would devour the food, a carnivore was needed and the domestication of the cat began.

This life changing event took place in what was the upper region of Egypt and the Pharaoh, considered a king god, named all the cats demi- gods, half mortal and half god. This created cats being ranked higher up in society then humans. If a house was on fire cats were saved first, if a human killed a cat it was punishable by death. Once a cat passed away a priest had to determine if it was a natural death, and the towns people would endure a ritualistic mourning process, going so far as to even shave their eyebrows and beat on their chest. Of course the cat was mummified and today more cat mummies have been discovered then human mummies. Furthermore cats were able to spread all over the world by sailors smuggling cats out of Egypt and were even traded as highly valued treasures due to their ability to control vermin.

Over the years cats and humans have had a love for each other as well as hatred. The dislike for the cat is partially responsible for the widespread outbreak of the bubonic plague during the 14th century. The plague is a bacterial disease of rodents spread by fleas. Signs include swollen lymph nodes, painful lumps, fever, headache, chills, and extreme tiredness. The disease is still present today but the invention of the antibiotic has drastically lowered the mortality rate. During this time period cats were disliked and a great majority were killed leading to an overpopulation of rodents. As the disease spread even more cats were destroyed since they were believed to be associated with Satan and were partially blamed for the massive amount of deaths. As more cats were killed the number of rodents grew creating a massive epidemic. Once the cause of the disease was discovered cats were again held in high regard and loved by humans.

The cat was again persecuted and associated with Satan during the middle ages. Cats typically were companions of elderly single woman who could be considered witches. Older woman during this time were considered useless since their bodies prohibited hard physical labor and childbearing. If the year was bad for crops it was believed a witch was the culprit and a witch hunt would take place. In many cases the older woman and her cat were tortured and killed together, some would be drowned, hung or even burnt to death. It was even believed at this time that sealing live cats into the walls of buildings would bring good luck.

Cats are complex solitary mammals that are motivated by their survival needs. They are quite talented at becoming close with humans and part of the household as well as reverting back to their wild nature when humans decide they no longer adore felines. Cats generally avoid encounters with strangers but if an encounter arises they will convey messages with the use of body language and some vocalizations. Slight changes in body position can send broad messages to another feline. An aggressive cat will spit, hiss, growl, swat, arch the back, swing tail, and even flatten the ears. If the feline is feeling confident and aggressive most likely the cat will hold the tail straight up, narrow the pupils, perk the ears up and may even prance sideways to appear larger, and might try to pounce the other animal. If the cat is feeling fearful it will generally flee the scene, if it isn’t too afraid it may freeze in place, and may even lose control over the bladder. A happy cat typically purrs, blinks slowly, and partially closes the eyes. The feline is known to be one of the most sensual of all mammals, with terrific eyesight, hearing, smell and with a great many taste and touch receptors. Whiskers can actually be a great tool to tell a cat what the environment is like. They are used to aid in navigation as well as sensation; it is thought they can even pick up on air currents. Whiskers are also used to convey messages, if the whiskers are held flat against the face the feline is most likely defensive or aggressive, if the whiskers are forward the feline is most likely friendly and inquisitive. Compared with humans felines are a quite species, but if you watch them closely you can probably catch a cat communicating with the use of the body.

The domestic cat has come a long ways over the years evolving into quite a unique creature. The cat has been a member of our household as well as persecuted by man. Cats have become a social creature that still have many wild traits allowing them to enjoy the comforts of a home and still be able to survive as a feral cat.

Dog Diarrhea

2009-11-22T04:11:00.000-08:00

As pet owners, one of the most frequent problems we have to deal with is diarrhea, especially with dogs. While dog diarrhea is not an illness in itself, it's a symptom of another underlying problem. In many cases, canine diarrhea is not a sign of a serious condition, but in some circumstances diarrhea can indicate the presence of a more severe and dangerous medical problem.

What is Diarrhea?

Typically, healthy adult dogs will defecate once a day if fed once a day or twice a day if fed twice a day. Puppies, on the other hand, tend to defecate more frequently. In either case, normal stools are firm; however, when a dog is suffering from diarrhea, its stools will be loose and soft due to the presence of excess water. Diarrhea also often increases the frequency of defecation as well as urgency. Dog diarrhea may also be accompanied by additional symptoms such as flatulence, a bad odor, abdominal pain, and matted hair beneath the animal's tail.

Causes

One of the reasons that dog diarrhea is such a common and frequent problem is that it can be caused by numerous different factors and conditions. Canine diarrhea can be triggered by problems originating within the digestive tract or from another part of the dog's body. For instance, ulcers, cancer, food allergies, toxins, foreign bodies, and worms are examples of problems within the digestive tract that can lead to diarrhea. On the other hand, liver disease, kidney disease, Addison's disease, and anxiety are problems not related to the digestive tract that can trigger diarrhea. Clearly, the potential causes of dog diarrhea are extremely numerous and also range in severity from relatively minor problems to life-threatening ones.

Puppies versus Adults

The common causes and frequency of canine diarrhea tend to vary somewhat between puppies and adult dogs. First of all, puppies typically experience diarrhea more often than adult dogs do. A major reason for this is related to the difference in common causes of diarrhea in puppies versus those that are common for adults. Puppies are more likely to eat garbage, swallow foreign objects, and experience intussusception, which involves the bowel folding been back upon itself. In contrast, adult dogs are more likely to experience diarrhea as a result of diseases such as liver or kidney disease. Since the latter triggers of diarrhea are less common, puppies tend to suffer from diarrhea more often than adult canines.

Chronic Versus Acute

When your dog is suffering from diarrhea, it's important to keep in mind that there are two different types of diarrhea -- acute and chronic. Acute diarrhea involves sudden onset and resolves quite quickly while chronic dog diarrhea is an ongoing problem that can last for weeks or even months. While most cases of canine diarrhea are acute and non-severe, in some circumstances veterinary care is necessary. With respect to acute diarrhea, a veterinarian should be consulted immediately if the stools contain blood or are accompanied by other troubling symptoms such as fever, vomiting, or abdominal pain. With regards to chronic dog diarrhea, veterinary care should be sought out in all cases.

Diagnosis

Since there are more than a hundred potential causes of dog diarrhea, pinpointing a trigger in a specific case can be quite difficult. However, there are a number of different diagnostic tests that can be conducted in order to narrow down and hopefully identify the underlying cause. These tests include fecal analysis, blood tests, x-rays, and abdominal ultrasounds. While fecal and blood tests can reveal the presence of parasites, infections, or allergic reactions, imaging tools such as x-rays and ultrasound can reveal the presence of foreign bodies or of physical abnormalities suggestive of diseases such as cancer.

Treatment

When an adult dog or puppy is suffering from diarrhea, the necessary treatment will depend upon the underlying cause. More severe cases of canine diarrhea will often require hospitalization and intravenous fluids. Also, more specific treatment steps will be required to deal with the underlying condition or problem. However, for mild cases of dog diarrhea that can be treated at home, certain dietary changes can be very helpful. In some cases, reducing food intake or providing a bland diet for a few days can help relieve diarrhea. Also, it's important to provide the dog with plenty of fresh water in order to prevent dehydration. There are also several natural supplements and homoeopathic remedies available that can help relieve diarrhea. These natural products are particularly popular with pet owners who prefer a more holistic healthcare approach for their canine companions.

Prevention

Although dog diarrhea is a very common problem, there are ways to lower the chances of your dog suffering from it. To begin with, it's important to ensure that your dog has a clean living environment and clean water in order to prevent infections. It's also important to be aware of any food allergies that your dog may have and to prevent your dog or puppy from eating garbage or rancid food as much as possible. Other good prevention techniques include reducing stress and anxiety and promoting your dog's overall health and strength through the use of natural supplements, regular exercise, and a healthy diet. When your dog is happy and healthy, diarrhea will cause fewer, less frequent problems for your beloved canine companion.

Mouthy biting behaviour in puppies

2009-11-22T03:12:00.000-08:00

Why is my puppy nipping and biting?

Although often thought to be a teething behavior, nipping, mouthing and biting in young dogs is generally a form of social play. Teething is more likely to involve gnawing or chewing on household objects. The first thing you must do is provide ample opportunity for play, without biting. Social play with people could involve retrieve games (ball, Frisbee or soft toy), hide n’ seek (with the puppy finding the humans for a treat), chasing after soap bubbles as well as walks, swimming or learning tricks. Although wrestling and tug of war games can be fun, they may lead to play that is too rough or rambunctious.
Puppies need to learn bite inhibition. This is something they start to learn while with their litter mates It is one reason that puppies should not go to new homes until 7 - 8 weeks and they have had time to practice social skills with other dogs. It can therefore be extremely beneficial for the puppy to have regular interactive social play periods with other dogs or puppies in the home or in the neighborhood.

How can I stop play biting?

Provided the dog is receiving adequate play, attention and exercise, you can turn the training to bite inhibition. One of the things that they need to learn is how much pressure from their jaws causes pain. Without this feedback, a puppy does not learn to inhibit the force of its bite. Because all dogs can and will bite at some time, this lesson is vital for human safety.
How is this lesson taught? When puppies play with each other, if puppy A bites on puppy B too hard, puppy B will yelp. If that does not work, puppy B will leave. This sends the message to puppy A that its’ bites were too hard and if it wishes to continue to play, it needs to be gentle. However, people often do not send this message to their puppy. In the beginning, they often allow the puppy to chew on them without reprimands and the puppy assumes that the behavior is acceptable.
Instead, the message people should send is THAT ALL mouthing and chewing on hands is painful. To do this, often all that is necessary is for ALL family members to emit a sharp "yip" and cease all play and attention immediately. This sends the message to the puppy that the bites are painful and that biting will cause play to be terminated. When consistently administered this will often stop playful biting. This training often works for those family members that are a little more forceful and assertive and who are immediate and consistent in their training. If the puppy persists, chases or immediately repeats the behavior, closing a door or walking over a baby gate to leave the puppy behind can help to teach the puppy that nipping leads to immediate inattention and isolation. In turn, it is very important to praise the puppy for soft gentle play or licking your hands instead of biting. This is the true key to teaching the puppy what is acceptable social and play behavior with humans.
It is important that if you have young children in your family (12 years and under) that ALL interaction, including games, be supervised 100% of the time. Children should simply be NEVER left alone with a dog, no matter how well behaved. Please read our accompanying handout on dogs and kids for more detailed information.

What if yelping does not help?

Other techniques are often suggested for play biting. Some involve harsh discipline, like slapping the puppy under the chin or forcefully holding the mouth closed. REMEMBER, PAIN CAN INCREASE AGGRESSION and cause the puppy to become anxious, fearful or perhaps more excited. These techniques also require that you grab an excited puppy; not an easy thing to do. Some puppies may even misinterpret the owner’s attempts at punishment as rough play, which in turn might lead to an increase in the behavior. PHYSICAL METHODS ARE THEREFORE NOT RECOMMENDED. Owners who cannot inhibit the puppy with a yelp, should use time-outs or a head halter.
The use of a head halter with a remote leash attached allows the puppy to play and chew, but a gentle pull on the leash can immediately and successfully close the mouth and stop biting without any physical force. By simultaneously saying "OFF", most puppies will quickly learn the meaning of the command. As soon as the puppy stops and calms down, the owner can allow play to resume, as long as biting does not begin again.
Remember that play biting is a component of play behavior in puppies. Play is a form of social interaction. Realize that your puppy is trying to play with you even though the behavior is rough. To ensure that you are in control, be certain that each play session is initiated by you and not the puppy, and that you can end each session whenever you choose. One effective strategy when the play gets too rough is to immediately end the play session and leave. Social withdrawal can be a very powerful tool. Leave the puppy alone long enough to calm down (30 seconds to two minutes). If upon your return the wild playing begins again, leave again. Keep repeating until the puppy figures out that when he gets wild or bites, you immediately leave the room. Although it is tempting to pick the puppy up and take it out of the room, this interaction may be interpreted by your puppy as additional play and the biting may continue as you carry the puppy to a confinement location.
An easy way to achieve social isolation is to simply leave a lightweight leash (a 6’ cat leash works well) on the puppy and as soon as the biting begins, drape the handle of the leash over a doorknob and leave the area. Or you can quickly tie the leash to a solid piece of furniture and leave the area. Or simply leave the room and shut the door behind you so the puppy can’t follow you. Again, keep the "time-outs" for short time periods, 30 seconds to 2 minutes and repeat if necessary until the puppy is calm.
Owners, who cannot inhibit the puppy with yelping or time-outs, could consider an electronic alarm, air horn, squirt bottle or ultrasonic device, as soon as the biting becomes excessive. Use the device as discreetly as possible and immediately AFTER yelping first. Praise the puppy as soon as he lets go. Repeat as needed but remember to keep your extra "tool" like the squirt bottle or air horn hidden until needed and then hide it again immediately after it‘s use. Do not leave it out or threaten the puppy with its use. Use it and then hide it. Children should NOT be allowed to use these devices but they should be supervised by an adult who can use these devices as discretely as possible.

I have heard that some games lead to excitable, rough behavior. Which games should I avoid?

Games such as tug-of-war, chase (with you chasing the puppy), wrestling and playing ANY games with your hands does encourage the puppy to bite and act aggressively towards you. Try teaching your puppy fetch, or blowing bubbles for him, or play hide n’ seek (the human hides and calls the puppy to find him for a reward of a toy or a treat). Direct the puppy’s mouth towards toys he CAN play with. Avoid giving your puppy household items such as shoes, towels or clothing to play with. This practice will teach the puppy it is OK to chew on things with your scent on them. Instead, buy him some sturdy dog toys such as Nylabones, Kongs or large plastic balls. For additional information on play and exercise in dogs, see our accompanying handout.

Is there anything else I can do to lessen mouthing and biting?

Yes. Make sure your puppy gets daily exercise with appropriate toys and enroll your puppy as early as possible (no later than 12 weeks of age) in a puppy socialization and training class. Make sure the class you pick does have play time so the puppies get to interact with each other off leash. You can also find other puppy owners and let your vaccinated pups play with each other once or twice a week. As explained above, puppies will help teach each other bite inhibition.

Aggression and Biting in Dogs

2009-11-22T02:59:00.000-08:00

Some people believe that once a dog bites, it will likely bite again. Is this true? What causes a dog to bite? How does one judge if a dog is aggressive? Where can one receive help for aggression problems?

If a dog bites once, will it likely bite again? Not necessarily. It depends on the situation in which the biting occurred. Once a dog has bitten, it should set off an alarm in the owner’s head. The dog is in need of IMMEDIATE behavioural modification techniques to reduce aggressive tendencies. First of all, one must think about the reasons why dogs bite in the first place.

Biting is a natural behaviour exhibited by the canine species in order to survive. Biting is used for obvious reasons such as hunting and killing prey. It is also used for communication between dogs to exhibit rank or to ‘put a puppy in its place’. The pet dog has undergone years of domestication and has reduced the use of their powerful jaws to live in the human society. However, a significant percentage of domestic dogs have bitten a human, and aggression is the number one cause of surrendered and/or euthanized dogs. In most cases, this drastic solution can be avoided by educating owners and working with them to reduce aggression. A dog bites when it does not want you near them or you are in an area that they are ‘protecting’. Therefore, when placed in a different situation, the dog may not bite again.

Genetic factors may also play a role in whether or not a dog may bite. Some breeds are selected for their protection or guarding capabilities. For example, many breeds instinctively chase moving objects, which can escalate into predation. Socialization is also an important factor, because fearfulness or anxiousness is another common cause of aggression.

The best way to deal with canine aggression is to prevent it from developing in the first place. As a new puppy owner, there are a few points to keep in mind as you are training your puppy to reduce the chance of future aggression. Nipping is commonly seen between littermates at play. It may be a cute behaviour as a puppy, but that puppy will soon grow up to be an adult with much stronger jaws. The adult dog will not understand why the previously accepted play biting is no longer acceptable. Play biting and rough housing should not be allowed from day one. This is accomplished not by physical force, but by teaching a dog to associate non-aggressive behaviour with positive reinforcement. Studies have shown that this method is superior to other methods that use punishment as a means of teaching.

It is difficult to get accurate dog bite statistics because many bites go unreported, unless the person seeks medical care. Statistics Canada mortality data showed that an average of one Canadian per year died from dog bites between 1991 and 1994. National morbidity data for 1993 showed that 656 Canadians were hospitalized that year for dog bites. Children younger than 10 were four times as likely to be hospitalized as people aged 10 and older. The vulnerability of children to dog bite injuries, particularly on the face, is often attributed to the fact that their small size makes them less intimidating to dogs. As well, immaturity and lack of judgment sometimes lead children to act in ways that animals perceive as threatening or aggressive. Therefore, it is important to teach children how to approach an unfamiliar dog. If a dog is unknown to you, remember that anything can happen. If the owner of the dog is present and they say it is okay to pet the dog, have the dog approach the child. Children should not approach or touch a dog that does not approach or touch them first.

How does one judge aggression in an unfamiliar dog? Dogs will display similar body language signals to tell you that they are uncomfortable with their current situation. These signs include backing away from strangers, staring at the ‘threat’, growling, or teeth-baring. A fearful, uncomfortable or insecure dog has a higher likelihood of biting.

Dogs bite out of fear or protectiveness. It is important to properly socialize a fearful dog at a young age and expose him/her to as many new environments as possible. With patience, an older fearful dog can also learn to become less fearful in strange environments. Lots of praise (and treats!) can be given to the dog while he/she is in a new environment or meeting a stranger. The dog will then learn to associate new and strange things with something positive. For protective dogs, it is important to reward the dog for doing good behaviours when a stranger approaches. For example, as a stranger comes closer, make sure the dog is sitting and give lots of praise as he/she continues to sit as the person approaches. Eventually, the stranger will be able to come close enough to give the dog a treat. Once again, the dog will learn to associate the stranger with good things and forget about being protective. Consistency and patience are important.

In any case, what is the likelihood of a dog that has bitten to bite again? The answer depends on various factors, such as the age and size of the dog, the extent of the bite, the environment in which the incident occurred, and the degree of commitment the owners have for working with the dog to prevent it from occurring again. The last two factors are the most important. Some dogs are not suitable for environments with small children, especially if they have not been properly socialized with children in the past or if the children do not respect the animal. And of course it is up to the owners to be consistent in training and implementing the appropriate behaviour modification program to reduce aggression.

If all these factors are considered and the training is consistent, the prognosis of a successful program is good. It is important to realize that in some cases, success may require restrictions on the dog, such as avoiding certain situations that have elicited aggressive behaviour in the past. Generally, if there has been only one biting incident, prospects for success are good. However, if there has been a history of numerous incidents, the prognosis becomes less favorable. Therefore, it is important for dog owners to recognize the problem early and intervene immediately.

There are a lot of resources to turn to when faced with an aggressive dog. However, in Canada, the dog training and behaviour business is an unregulated field and people can teach any method of training, regardless of how inappropriate or inhumane it may be. With this in mind, any owner who has a dog with a serious behavior problem such as aggression should contact their veterinarian for a referral to a qualified and experienced trainer or behaviour consultant. It is important to realize that isolated biting incidents or sudden changes in behaviour may be due to medical causes, such as pain or neurological changes. A visit to the veterinarian will help rule out those causes and steer you in the right direction.

Behavior Problems in Dogs

2009-11-22T02:26:00.000-08:00

There are many behavioral problems in dogs that leave us wondering: Why are they doing that? What are the causes and what can I do to stop such behavior? Some of the more frequently reported behavioral problems are described below.

Destructive behavior
Destructive behavior is one of the most common complaints from dog owners, and hence necessitates the most in-depth discussion. A dog quickly ceases to be ‘man’s best friend’ when he/she scratches up a prized rug, chews up a favourite sweater, or eats an expensive pair of shoes. Destructive behavior is due to many causes, including separation anxiety. Many owners are gone from the house for many hours during the day, and the result is that the dog has more opportunity to develop destructive behavior The problem with this is that owners come home and see the chewed object and will punish the dog at that time. The dog will not associate the act of destruction to the punishment because they will not understand exactly why you are upset. They will act ‘guilty’ because they know you are upset, but they will not associate your anger with their act of destroying the object. Therefore, do not punish a dog for its behavior unless you catch him in the act.

Another reason for destructive behavior is lack of environmental stimulation. Boredom may be a cause, or at least a contributing factor, especially in young or large dogs that do not receive adequate exercise. Dogs need environmental stimulation. Obtaining a second pet or providing interesting and interactive toys for the dog may help. For example, a hollow toy filled with solid treats or peanut butter encourages the dog to interact with the ball to get at the treats.

Finally, destructive behavior could also occur due to barrier frustration. This may result if the dog has been punished by being put in a closed room or into a fenced yard, or it may be caused by the presence of something very desirable on the other side of the barrier. In these cases, the dog will try hard to break through the barrier and may destroy the door frame or door knobs, for example.

To treat destructive problems, one must determine the exact cause of the behavior and remedy this cause accordingly. For example, a young dog that is chewing furniture but not doorways is mostly likely in need of more environmental stimulation. Increasing exercise, providing another animal companion, putting the radio on, decreasing anxiety, or giving chew toys only when the owners are away are other treatments.

Preventing such behavior from developing is always easier than trying to treat it afterwards. Puppy owners should avoid giving the puppy old shoes or a piece of rug to chew on because the animal will not be able to differentiate between an old sneaker and the new leather dress shoe. Dog toys should be provided, but they should be a type and texture that the dog can easily distinguish from forbidden objects. It is also a good idea to be consistent when presenting toys to the dog and make it obvious that the toy indeed belongs to the dog. Puppies should be left in their crate when the owners are gone from the house. The crate should not be the place where you confine the dog as punishment. The crate is their ‘den’ and the puppy should learn that it is their own safe haven.

Aggression
Aggression is also a common complaint from dog owners and is a serious threat to public safety Biting should be discouraged during puppy-hood.

Excessive barking
Excessive barking can be disruptive to you and the neighbours. But before considering drastic surgery such as debarking (which is not recommended), determine where and when the dog is barking. If it occurs only when out in the backyard alone, the solution is to keep the dog indoors and accompany the dog on a leash outside. More commonly, dogs bark at strangers or visitors to the house. This is due to territorial behavior and the dog is simply protecting his/her property – that may include you. It is your task to teach the dog to stop inappropriate barking. Use positive reinforcement to modify the dog’s behavior For example, when the dog barks, call him/her over or command him/her to sit and reward with a tasty treat. Do not use negative punishment because it may cause fear in the dog, which may exacerbate the barking problem.

Jumping up on people
Jumping up on people is a common behavioral problem that is usually minor, unless the dog is very large or the owner has small children. The problem persists because the dog continues to receive the attention that he/she wants. The best solution is to train the dog that jumping up will get him/her no attention. Ignore the dog completely when he/she attempts to jump up on you. Look upward and fold your arms across your chest so the dog receives no physical or visual contact. Command the dog to sit calmly. Once he/she sits, you may reward with attention. Be consistent and have the entire family participate in this training. The dog will soon learn that jumping up will get him/her no attention.

Pica
Pica is defined as the abnormal ingestion of materials that are not normally food. These include soil, gravel, or feces. Puppies are notorious for eating inappropriate objects that must sometimes be surgically removed from the gastrointestinal tract. Occasionally, pica may be a sign of a deficiency in their diet, but more frequently, it is simply due to the animal’s own curiosity. One of the most troubling forms of pica is the ingestion of feces (coprophagia). Unless the feces contains parasites, coprophagia affects the owner’s aesthetic values more than the dog’s health. However, to change such a habit, owners can sprinkle pepper on the feces to make it less appealing to the dog. Another approach is to inject hot sauce into the center of feces so the dog cannot smell that it has been been altered.

Excessive licking
Self-mutilation is a behavioral problem caused by excessive licking and/or biting of the animal’s own body. The affected areas can progress to lick granulomas (hairless areas of thickened, irritated skin) or more serious, infected wounds. An indication of the dog licking at an area is discolouration of the fur. Saliva will cause fur to redden. In the absence of other diseases that cause itching (such as parasites or allergies), this self-mutilation has a psychological cause. Boredom, changes in the environment, or other stress factors are examples of possible causes.

Tail chasing
Tail chasing is a phenomenon that is often humorous to people. However, it should be considered a behavior problem and should not be encouraged. The cause is unknown. Restraint seems to exacerbate the problem, so eliminating cage confinement and distracting the dog while he/she is chasing may help. Tail chasing is also often a sign of boredom and inadequate exercise.

Phobias
Dogs have an interesting variety of phobias, including fear of thunderstorms, fireworks, street noises, or cars. Occasionally, the phobia can be traced to a bad experience that the dog had in the past. A common phobia is fear of thunderstorms. Those dogs may become frantic or try to run away during storms. In severe cases, the dog will try to escape by clawing through doors, or jumping high fences. The presence of the owner or a blanket to cover the dog often helps. Progressive desensitization for thunder phobias is a commonly used treatment method. A good quality recording of thunder is played quietly to the dog while positive reinforcement is given, such as treats. The volume of the recording is increased progressively as the dog becomes more and more comfortable with the noise. This can be done daily in 10-minute sessions. If the problem is very serious, calming medication may be needed during storms.

Car chasing/Running away
Car chasing and running away are problems that can be prevented by keeping the dog on a leash, under voice control, or in a sturdy pen at all times. If you wish to let your dog off-leash, do so in a fenced backyard or designated fenced dog park. Once a dog has learned to chase cars or to roam, it can often find ways to escape confinement, so restraint as well as behavioral modification methods should be used. For example, squirting the dog with a water pistol or frightening him/her with a loud noise (i.e. an empty pop can filled with pebbles dropped on the ground behind the dog) can discourage the dog from running onto the road.

Digging holes
Digging holes in the yard is a problem that arises when the dog is trying to escape from the yard. Dogs also dig to keep cool or to catch rodents. If the dog is left outdoors during hot weather, ensure the dog has a cool shelter with plenty of water available. Eliminate rodents and put chicken wire where the dog likes to dig to deter it. If the dog is a natural digger like a Terrier then the digging has a genetic component. Consider giving the dog an area where it is allowed to dig.

Keep your dog busy

2009-11-21T03:29:00.001-08:00

Dogs are social, active creatures that like people need attention, activity, structure and in many cases a job! Without daily interaction with your dog trouble will ensue! Bored and neglected dogs get frustrated which can manifest itself in a variety of ways to include acting out with behavior problems by being destructive in the home, not to mention health issues such as being over weight and depressed.

A while ago I adopted a nine-year-old Queensland Heeler who was clearly down in the dumps. She had spent the last few years left to her own devices in the back yard, excluded from family life in the house, she was only walked occasionally. She was overweight, her coat was dull and she seemed older than her years. My heart went out to this girl, especially when I found out in addition to being in bad condition she suffered from acute separation anxiety .

This was a very intelligent dog that needed some life and a sense of purpose breathed back into her, so it became my mission to cheer her up. Hiking became a part of our daily routine, the exercise did us both good. After she relentlessly shoved tennis balls in my lap I discovered she was a ballaholic, so then came regular trips to the dog park where I stood endlessly throwing the ball for an exuberant dog! As a herding breed her true calling was to herd cattle, so off we went to herding classes where she got to round up sheep. Now we had a hobby together that we both looked forward to. Within a matter of months this down trodden dog was transformed and I had developed a great bond with her. The years and the weight seemed to melt off her, there was sheen to her coat and a glint in her eyes, her energy was back and so was her confidence!

When we make that commitment to bring a dog into our lives it is vital that we provide daily activity and stimulation for this member of the family. There are all kinds of activities that can be incorporated into your lifestyle and daily exercise routine, the level and type of activity best suited to the dog will be determined by the breed of dog. For example a Border Collie has a lot of energy and requires a great deal of physical and mental activity, they excel in both agility and herding as it challenges them mentally and physically. On the other hand a Basset Hound has a low energy level and would be satisfied with a mild day walk. In return for providing daily activity to your dog's life you will be greatly rewarded by the bond that you develop with your dog, you will also benefit from living with a happy, healthy, confident and well mannered dog. Who knows, you may even discover a new hobby together!

Here are a few activity suggestions for you and your canine companion:

Dog Park - A daily trip to the local dog park is a great way to socialize your dog, particularly beneficial for dogs that are left alone all day, they can run around off leash, play ball, tug of war, hang out with their buddies!

Hiking - Whether it's a stroll in the neighborhood or a hike in the hills every dog needs to get out and about in new surroundings, exercise, take in the new smells, mark its territory and greet dogs along its path.

Running - Need a running partner, interested in cross-country running? Certain dogs can fulfill this role and will provide great camaraderie.

The Beach - I have yet to meet a dog that does not enjoy a good invigorating run on the sand, play with the tide, chase the birds, what Retriever doesn't like to swim and fetch a stick from the water? Don't forget to bring some Dry Dog Instant Clean to wipe your dog down and get rid of the sand afterward. Click here for more info about taking your dog to the beach.

Rollerblading - Leash up and rollerblade with your dog, off road of course! Great for high-energy dogs that benefit from a daily run. Only recommended for people that are adept skaters!

Sheep Herding - A fantastic sport for the herding breeds who were bred to herd livestock and without fulfilling this instinct and the need to be mentally stimulated can become a challenging companion.

Agility - A fast moving sport where dogs are directed off leash by their handlers through a obstacle course to include the A-frame, dog-walk, weave poles, seesaw, pause table, collapsed tunnel, pipe tunnel, different types of jumps and hurdles to include a tire, triple and double jumps. This sport does wonders for building confidence, obedience and teamwork skills.

Obedience Classes - Weekly classes are very beneficial for teaching your dogs good manners, every dog should learn basic commands for both practical and safety reasons. Hyper dogs may have a hard time focusing, we suggest trying Sleepytime Tonic so that your dog gets the most out of his class.

Massage - What better way to bond with your dog by showing your love for him by giving him a massage. This can be enhanced by the soothing smells of lavender by spraying your dog with Calming

Horse Riding Equipment

2009-11-21T03:05:00.000-08:00

When you are choosing horse riding equipment for the first time you will probably want to stick to the basics. Buying only what you need when you are starting is a good idea as you will soon learn what is necessary as your interest for the sport develops. However buying poor equipment will probably stop you from learning to ride properly so always buy the right horse riding equipment.

Helmets

Helmets are essential horse riding safety equipment. The right sort of helmet will keep you protected in the event of a fall. Never hold back on on your helmet or buy something used, always buy the best. Take someone more experienced along if you are unsure about choosing a helmet that fits you properly.

Boots

Besides your helmet the type of boots that you choose is probably the most important part of your horse riding equipment. You want boots that fit you comfortably and also look good. The type of horse riding boots that you choose depends largely on what type of riding that you will be doing.

If you are only into riding for fun then a low cut boot is the best to buy for your horse riding equipment. To make taking your boots off easier decide a boot that has a back zipper. Your boot should be a snug fit but at the same time it should also be comfortable.

If you are intending to ride in shows then you will need tall boots. This piece of horse riding equipment not only looks great it also helps to keep your leg position nice and stable. You will find that these are probably the most comfortable type of boots to wear.

Glasses

While glasses might not seem like the first thing you need to consider when buying horse riding equipment, the right type of eyewear is important. You need to make sure that you can see properly while riding. Many people opt for contacts if they normally wear glasses. This is especially true for winter riding as glasses tend to fog up quite a bit in the cold air.

Yet if you choose to use glasses then safety glass in your frames are a good investment as part of your horse riding equipment. This will avert vicious accidents that can occur if your glasses should break. Sunglasses are also something you should consider when riding in the summer as the glare you might encounter can be extremely distracting.

Five Best Pet Birds To Own

2009-11-19T11:05:00.000-08:00

The five best pet birds are those that fit well into a home or apartment and give lots of delight to the lucky owners. Of course, you want to obtain a young, preferably hand-fed bird that will be easy to tame and train in whichever species you select. The following should help you learn about which of these five species might best become a new family member in your home.

Parakeets

Parakeets, also known as budgies or budgerigars, are probably the most popular small bird and a great choice for beginner parrot enthusiasts. These little bundles of feathers, if tamed when very young, can often be very good with children as long as the children understand the bird is not a toy but a living, feeling creature with wants and desires all its own. Available in a rainbow of colors, these small parrots require little space compared to large birds and taking care of them is simple and easy. They are very intelligent; many learn a large vocabulary of human words, whistles and even songs. These little birds live from 12 to 20 years if cared for properly. If you are not going to be home much to interact with the parakeet, purchase two and they will play together and provide lots of joy watching them. These pets are also good for older people who don't want all the responsibility and maintenance of a dog or cat. Food cost is minimal but budgies love to eat lots of human foods along with their seeds or pellets and they relish vegetables and grasses. Parakeets are native to Australia where huge flocks of them still fly in the sparely populated regions. It is interesting to note that "budgerigar" comes from an Aborigines word that means "pretty good eating" but not one in the modern world would want to eat one of these beautiful little creatures.

Cockatiels

Cockatiels are another great choice for the novice parrot owner. These medium sized parrots are also native to Australia. They can learn to talk and sing quite well and learn other sounds such as telephones ringing, door bells and much more. Their whistling ability allows them to learn entire whistled songs. These parrots can live from 15 to 30 or more years with diligent care. They are playful and often good with children. Their intelligence level is very high but they are a bit more calm that the energetic, playful parakeet. The colorful orange spots on each cheek give them a clownish look that is loved by millions.

Sun Conures

Sun conures are medium sized parrots and have the most colorful feathers of any of the five most popular species. They are not much larger than a cockatiel but a bit fuller in their bodies. The red, orange, yellow, blue and green plumage in adulthood is striking. They can learn to talk but they also have very loud screams which are used to alarm for danger and to show displeasure. If you live in an apartment, you might want to choose a quieter parrot like the parakeet or cockatiel. These playful parrots can live from 25 to 50 or more years of age provided accident or illness does not shorten their lives. Their larger, stronger beaks do not make them a good prospect for families with children because they can easily break the skin when displeased and pushed to the point of biting. Purchase a hand-raised baby and train it well and you'll have an adoring friend for a long time.

Parrotlets

Parrotlets are small parrots that are quiet feisty. Their intelligence level is very high and they tend to have the attitude of a much larger bird. There are reasonably quiet and therefore great for apartment dwellers. They can live 20 or more years which is a long time for a little creature that only measures about five inches long!

African Greys

African greys round out the top five most popular birds for pets. These birds are highly intelligent and can learn to speak thousands of words. They can be demanding and are easily bored, requiring lots of attention and toys. These larger birds can live 50 to 100 or more years with proper care. In fact, there have been documented cases of them living over 130 years. These are fun and bright companions that want to be with you everywhere you go.

Choose one of the five best pet birds for your first bird. Then you will learn the joys of being owned by a parrot!

Preventing Infections from Pets

2009-11-19T09:02:00.000-08:00

You do not have to give up your pet.

Although the risks are low, you can get an infection from pets or other animals.

Several simple precautions are all you need to take with pets or other animals.

HIV can not be spread by, or to, cats, dogs, birds, or other pets.

Should I keep my pets?

Yes. Most people with human immunodeficiency virus (HIV) can and should keep their pets. Owning a pet can be rewarding. Pets can help you feel psychologically and even physically better. For many people, pets are more than just animals - they are like members of the family. However, you should know the health risks of owning a pet or caring for animals. Animals may carry infections that can be harmful to you. Your decision to own or care for pets should be based on knowing what you need to do to protect yourself from these infections.

What kinds of infections could I get from an animal?

Animals can have cryptosporidiosis ("crypto"), toxoplasmosis ("toxo"), Mycobacterium avium complex ("MAC"), and other diseases. These diseases can give you problems like severe diarrhea, brain infections, and skin lesions. You can learn more about many of these diseases and how to prevent them from other brochures in this series. These are listed at the end of this brochure.

What can I do to protect myself from infections spread by animals?

Always wash your hands well with soap and water after playing with or caring for animals. This is especially important before eating or handling food.

Be careful about what your pet eats and drinks. Feed your pet only pet food or cook all meat thoroughly before giving it to your pet. Don't give your pet raw or undercooked meat. Don't let your pets drink from toilet bowls or get into garbage. Don't let your pets hunt or eat another animal's stool (droppings).

Don't handle animals that have diarrhea. If the pet's diarrhea lasts for more than 1or 2 days, have a friend or relative who does not have HIV take your pet to your veterinarian. Ask the veterinarian to check the pet for infections that may be the cause of diarrhea.

Don't bring home an unhealthy pet. Don't get a pet that is younger than 6 months old - especially if it has diarrhea. If you are getting a pet from a pet store, animal breeder, or animal shelter (pound), check the sanitary conditions and license ofthese sources. If you are not sure about the animal's health, have it checked out by your veterinarian.

Don't touch stray animals because you could get scratched or bitten. Stray animals can carry many infections.

Don't ever touch the stool of any animal.

Ask someone who is not infected with HIV and is not pregnant to change your cat's litter box daily. If you must clean the box yourself, wear vinyl or household cleaning gloves and immediately wash your hands well with soap and water right after changing the litter.

Have your cat's nails clipped so it can't scratch you. Discuss other ways to prevent scratching with your veterinarian. If you do get scratched or bitten, immediately wash the wounds well with soap and water.

Don't let your pet lick your mouth or any open cuts or wounds you may have.

Don't kiss your pet.

Keep fleas off your pet.

Avoid reptiles such as snakes, lizards, and turtles. If you touch any reptile, immediately wash your hands well with soap and water.

Wear vinyl or household cleaning gloves when you clean aquariums or animal cages and wash your hands well right after you finish.

Avoid exotic pets such as monkeys, and ferrets, or wild animals such as raccoons, lions, bats, and skunks.

I have a job that involves working with animals. Should I quit?

Jobs working with animals (such as jobs in pet stores, animal clinics, farms, and slaughterhouses) carry a risk for infections. Talk with your doctor about whether you should work with animals. People who work with animals should take these extra precautions:

Follow your worksite's rules to stay safe and reduce any risk of infection. Use or wear personal protective gear, such as coveralls, boots, and gloves.

Don't clean chicken coops or dig in areas where birds roost if histoplasmosis [his-to-plaz-MO-sis] is found in the area.

Don't touch young farm animals, especially if they have diarrhea.

Can someone with HIV give it to their pets?

No. HIV can not be spread to, from, or by cats, dogs, birds, or other pets. Many viruses cause diseases that are like AIDS, such as feline leukemia virus, or FeLV, in cats. These viruses cause illness only in a certain animal and cannot infect other animals or humans. For example, FeLV infects only cats. It does not infect humans or dogs.

Are there any tests a pet should have before I bring it home?

A pet should be in overall good health. You don't need special tests unless the animal has diarrhea or looks sick. If your pet looks sick, your veterinarian can help you choose the tests it needs.

What should I do when I visit friends or relatives who have animals?

When you visit anyone with pets, take the same precautions you would in your own home. Don't touch animals that may not be healthy. You may want to tell your friends and family about the need for these precautions before you plan any visits.

Should children with HIV handle pets?

The same precautions apply for children as for adults. However, children may want to snuggle more with their pets. Some pets, like cats, may bite or scratch to get away from children. Adults should be extra watchful and supervise an HIV-infected child's handwashing to prevent infections.

Keeping a Pet Parrot

2009-11-15T05:39:00.000-08:00

Parrots make enjoyable pets and put colour and interest into your life. They are relatively easy to feed and maintain but it is wise to remember that the larger parrots live a long time and keeping one is a long-term commitment.

When your parrot first comes home, watch him closely to make sure that he is not showing any signs of illness. Things to look out for are fluffed-up feathers, resting with his head inside his wing,standing on both legs instead of one, a thin breast bone, loose droppings, heavy breathing or any discharge from his nostrils. If you notice any of these symptoms or have any other worries or niggles about your new bird, keep him warm at about 80 to 90 degrees F or 27 to 32 degrees C and place him in a quiet place away from noise or anything that might startle him. Consult your vet as soon as possible in case your parrot needs urgent treatment.

Your first purchase will be an adequate parrot cage and ideas-4-pets have lots of parrot cages to choose from. For parrots kept in the house, a large parrot cage is ideal as long as the bird is allowed some time each day to fly around the room. A word of advise - don’t leave him flying around unsupervised as he can easily get himself into serious trouble by chewing electric wires, damaging furniture and fittings or generally wreaking havoc !!

When you have chosen a parrot cage, a good idea is to fit some natural perches in it as these provide different diameters for your parrot’s feet to move to, which exercises his feet. All perches should be changed regularly and the floor of the parrot cage should be covered with shavings, sand or newspaper and changed daily to keep the cage scrupulously clean.

Try to provide your parrot with an interesting, stimulating parrot cage as parrots are very intelligent and inquisitive creatures. They should be provided with lots of climbing opportunities which could include cotton rope as well as wooden climbing frames and ladders, bells and mirrors. Many suitable parrot toys can be bought from your local pet shop and your parrot will love to play with different things to keep him amused. A bird play stand is also a good idea as this will allow him to play and hop around outside his parrot cage.

Parrots love a varied diet because in the wild they eat lots of fruits and seeds. Just like us, if we were offered the same few foods every day we would soon start to be bored of our diet and also suffer from various health problems.

Foods that should be offered on a regular basis to your parrot are canary seed, mixed millets, hemp, wheat, maize, sunflower (not too much of this as it is an oil seed and can make your parrot put weight on), oats, buckwheat, paddy rice, niger, linseed and groats.

Most parrots love oranges, grapes, cherries, eating apples, pears and bananas and you can also include some exotic fruits like papaya, mango and kiwi. Never give your parrot avocado as this is poisonous to birds. Your parrot will also enjoy vegetables like carrots, celery, spinach, beetroot, peas, beans and even lightly cooked corn on the cob.

Soaked biscuit are another favourite but we recommend that you don’t feed your parrot with scraps from the table as this is not a good policy. Larger parrots, especially macaws, should be given nuts in their diet throughout the year such as walnuts, brazil nuts, pecans, cashews and hazelnuts.

Any fruit and vegetables should be washed thoroughly before being fed to your parrot and all his dishes should be spotlessly clean so don’t place them directly under his perch where they will quickly become dirty, soiled and unhygienic .

A good quality parrot food is very convenient and will provide your bird with adequate nutrition. If in doubt about what type to buy for your parrot we advise that you check this out with your vet. As with all pets, fresh, clean water should be provided daily and again his water bowl should always be pristine.

Looked after well, your parrot will be an excellent companion and provide you with many years of love and entertainment.

Horse's age by it's teeth

2009-11-15T05:14:00.000-08:00

Have you ever seen an old movie where someone was looking inside a horse's mouth and then proclaims how old it is, and thought that it must just be an old wives' tale? Well believe it or not, but it actually is possible to tell how old a horse is by looking at its teeth... certain teeth grow in at certain times in the horse's life.

If you're wanting to be able to determine for yourself the age of a horse with this technique, then you need to know what to look for and how many teeth the horse should have. Keep in mind that the ages are approximate, since horses are much like people in that individuals will develop their teeth at different rates. You should be able to get a decent idea, however. Look at the sides (profile) of the teeth or (if looking to see how wide the teeth are) at the lower teeth, since it's easier to see them than it is the teeth on top.

6 months - 2 years: At a young age, the horse will only have 4 incisors. They will have their milk teeth, but these are small and shouldn't be counted. By the time the horse reaches two years of age, two more incisors should have grown in to bring the total to 6.

2 years - 4 1/2 years: At two years, there should be 6 incisors in addition to the milk teeth. The teeth will continue to grow and spread until the horse is around 4 1/2 years old, at which time they will begin to replace the milk teeth. The milk teeth will disappear as the teeth continue to grow.

5 years - 9 years: It can be difficult to estimate age within this range because there are very few indicators. The milk teeth have disappeared, and the teeth are growing larger (especially the teeth toward the back.) If the teeth still seem somewhat small or appear to be smaller in the back, the horse is likely toward the younger end of this scale; if the teeth are all large, then the horse is likely older.

10 years - 15 years: At 10 years of age, it becomes a bit easier to tell the age of the horse. A groove, known as Galvayne's groove, begins to appear at the top of the rear incisors. This groove will continue to grow until the horse is around 15 years of age, at which point the groove will go down the entire length of the tooth.

15 years - 25 years: This is another span that is hard to tell the age correctly, because there aren't many indicators. As the horse gets older, the Galvayne's groove will slowly begin to disappear starting at the top of the tooth. By 25 years of age, the groove may only appear on the bottom half of the tooth... though it may still be on part of the upper half as well.

25 years - 30 years: During these years Galvayne's groove continues to disappear. A horse with no groove or with only a small groove at the bottom of the tooth is likely 30 years old or older.

Male Horse Names

2009-11-15T04:30:00.000-08:00

10 Popular Male Horse Names

What is in a male horse (gelding) name? Everything! The name you give to your male horse stays with you for your horse's lifespan – 20 to 30 years. That is a long time to be asking "Shadow Dancer" to canter, walk etc. So you have to be comfortable with the name from the start.

Observe your male horse closely when you are about to purchase him and an appropriate name may jump out at you. Is your male horse "lucky" to have been rescued? Do you look at him and his colour reminds you of a hot chocolate, "Cocoa"? Does that beautiful male horse remind you of a movie star – "Oscar" or "Rocky" or "Mr Ed" or "Sundance"?

From our recent Australian survey, here is our latest list of ten popular male horse names.

Male Horse Names

1. Sunny
2. Shadow
3. Cody
4. Chip
5. Dakota
6. Cocoa
7. Rusty
8. Sundance
9. Toby
10. Cooper

Female Horse Names

10 Popular Female Horse Names

What is in a female horse (mare) name? Everything! The name you give to your female horse stays with you for your horse's lifespan – 20 to 30 years. That is a long time to be asking "Daisy" to canter, walk etc. So you have to be comfortable with the name from the start.

Observe your female horse closely when you are about to purchase her and an appropriate name may jump out at you. Is your female horse "lucky" to have been rescued? Do you look at her and her colour reminds you of "Brandy"? Does that beautiful female horse remind you of a movie star – "Maggie" or "Lady" or "Polly"?

From our recent Australian survey, here is our latest list of ten popular female horse names.

Female Horse Names

1. Maggie
2. Comet
3. Brandy
4. Lady
5. Lucky
6. Midnight
7. Sunny
8. Misty
9. Holly
10. Daisy

Three Horse Categories

2009-11-15T04:08:00.000-08:00

There are hundreds of different breeds of horses, but they are grouped into three broad categories: cold blood, warm blood and hot blood.

Cold Blood. In Europe, horses were originally bred for farm work and as working horses. Their main function was to pull things (e.g. plow, cart, barges, forest logs). They were bred for strength and endurance, able to pull heavy objects and to work many hours each day. This resulted in breeds with big muscles, on heavy frames, with large joints. Such horses also needed to be calm an obedient; the last thing you wanted was a horse running off with a cart or farm equipment. Their coats, manes and tail hair were thick and long to protect them from the European winters. Such horses are not fast, but are very solid working horses. Sample breeds are the Shire and the Clydesdale.

Hot Blood. In the middle-east and some of the other warmer climates, horses were bred for riding and racing. Such horses are built for speed and distance, rather than power and endurance, so had much lighter bodies and in particular more delicate legs. Their coats, manes and tails have relatively short hair in response to the warm climate. Also, their blood vessels are nearer the skin surface in order to dissipate heat better. Their temperament is spirited and competitive, traits that help them win races. The Arabian and the Thoroughbred and among the best known hot bloods.

Warm Blood (also known as warmblood). These breeds fall between hot and cold bloods in terms of both build and temperament. In some cases, the breeds have originated by crossing a cold blood breed with a hot blood breed. They have an athletic build and performance similar to a hot blood, but a calmer disposition and easy trainability which one associates with a cold blood. Due to their physical characteristics and solid temperament, they are used mainly for riding and sports (e.g. show jumping, dressage). Example warm blood breeds are the Friesian and Hanoverian.

These three terms (cold, hot, warm) of course refer to their climate of origin and their temperament, not to the temperature of their blood. All horses have approximately the same body and blood temperatures (about 38°C or 100.5°F) and as mammals they are all 'warm blooded' from a biological classification perspective.

All breeds are bred for certain characteristics, but the desired objectives tend to change over time, with the result that the breeding direction changes as well. As an example, the Oldenburg warmblood was bred in the late 1800s to be an elegant carriage horse, in the early 1900s the direction changed to be a farm and artillery horse, and in modern years to be a sport horse. Consequently, the breeds have changed over time not only due to the success of breeding programs but also due to the changing direction of breeding programs. More generally, as the historical functions of horses have been taken over by machines (e.g. farm work by tractors, transport by cars), the breeding objectives have been more towards sports and pleasure riding. This change in the objectives and use of individual breeds has resulted in a parallel gradual evolution of the three categories of warm, cold and hot bloods.

Famous Animal Quotes

2009-11-15T01:59:00.000-08:00

"An animal's eyes have the power to speak a great language." ~ Martin Buber

"We can judge the heart of a man by his treatment of animals." ~ Immanual Kant

"My little dog -- a heartbeat at my feet." ~ Edith Wharton

"A cat is a puzzle for which there is no solution." ~ Hazel Nicholson

"The purity of a person's heart can be quickly measured by how they regard animals" ~ Anonymous

"Who can believe that there is no soul behind those luminous eyes!" ~ Theophile Gautier

"Dogs are not our whole life, but they make our lives whole." ~ Roger Caras

"There's no need for a piece of sculpture in a home that has a cat." ~ Wesley Bates

"Thousands of years ago, cats were worshipped as gods. Cats have never forgotten this." ~ Anonymous

"You think dogs will not be in heaven? I tell you, they will be there long before any of us" ~ Robert Louis Stevenson

"A dog is the only thing on earth that will love you more than you love yourself." ~ Josh Billings

"Until one has loved an animal, a part of one's soul remains unawakened." ~ Anatole France

"Old age means realizing you will never own all the dogs you wanted to." ~ Joe Gores

"A canter is the cure for all evil." ~ Benjamin Disraeli

"Dogs have owners, cats have staff." ~ Anonymous

"Don't accept your dog's admiration as conclusive evidence that you are wonderful." ~ Ann Landers

"In the beginning, God created man, but seeing him so feeble, He gave him the cat" ~ Warren Eckstein

"A house is not a home without a pet." ~ Anonymous

"I love cats because I enjoy my home; and little by little, they become its visible soul." ~ Jean Cocteau

"If having a soul means being able to feel love and loyalty and gratitude, then animals are better off than a lot of humans" ~ James Herriot

"I think I could turn and live with animals, they are
so placid and self-contained,
I stand and look at them long and long." ~ Walt Whitman

"There is no psychiatrist in the world like a puppy licking your face." ~ Ben Williams

"A dog maybe a man's best friend but a horse made history..." ~ Anonymous

"No heaven will not ever Heaven be;
Unless my cats are there to welcome me." ~ Anonymous

"Did you ever walk into a room and forget why you walked in?
I think that is how dogs spend their lives." ~ Sue Murphy

"To err is human, to forgive, canine" ~ Anonymous

"To err is human, to purr, feline" ~ Robert Byrne

"A horse gallops with his lungs,
Perseveres with his heart,
And wins with his character." ~ Tesio

"A Horse! A Horse! my kingdom for a horse!" ~ Shakespeare

"All of the animals except for man know that the principle business of life is to enjoy it." ~ Samuel Butler

"You can say any foolish thing to a dog, and the dog will give you a look that says, 'My God, you're right! I never would've thought of that!'" ~ Dave Barry

"There is nothing in which the birds differ more from man than the way in which they can build and yet leave a landscape as it was before." ~ Robert Lynd

"The dog was created especially for children. He is the God of frolic." ~ Henry Ward Beecher

"The greatness of a nation and its moral progress can be judged by the way its animals are treated." ~ Mahatma Gandhi

"The Cat. He walked by himself, and all places were alike to him." ~ Rudyard Kipling

"If I have any beliefs about immortality it is that certain dogs I know will go to heaven, and very very few people." ~ James Thurber

"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg." ~ Samuel Butler

"I've met many thinkers and many cats, but the wisdom of cats is infinitely superior." ~ Hippolyte Taine

"Every boy should have two things: a dog, and a mother willing to let him have one" ~ Anonymous

"Love the animals: God has given them the rudiments of thought and joy untroubled" ~ Fyodor Dostoyevsky

"A dog has lots of friends because he wags his tail and not his tongue." ~ Anonymous

"The dog represents all that is best in man." ~ Etienne Charlet

"The bird of paradise alights only upon the hand that does not grasp." ~ John Berry

"And God took a handful of southernly wind, blew His breath over it and created the horse." ~ Bedouin Legend

"The average dog is a nicer person than the average person." ~ Andrew A. Rooney

"A bird does not sing because it has an answer. It sings because it has a song." ~ Chinese Proverb

"Dogs come when they're called; cats take a message and get back to you later." ~ Mary Bly

"Animals are such agreeable friends - they ask no questions, they pass no criticisms." ~ George Elliot

"The Trouble with a kitten is
That
Eventually it becomes a
Cat"
~ Ogden Nash

"The greatest pleasure of a dog is that you may make a fool of yourself with him and not only will he not scold you, but he will make a fool of himself, too." ~ Samuel Butler

"I care not for a man's religion whose dog and cat are not the better for it."
~ Abraham Lincoln

"If a dog jumps in your lap, it is because he is fond of you; but if a cat does the same thing, it is because you lap is warmer." ~ Alfred North Whitehead

"...he will be our friend for always and always and always." ~ Rudyard Kipling

"The best thing about animals is that they don't talk much." ~ Thornton Wilder

"When I play with my cat, who knows whether she is not amusing herself with me more than I with her." ~ Montaigne

Thinking of getting a horse

2009-11-12T13:00:00.000-08:00

So you’re thinking about getting a horse. You would like pursue your passion and join the millions of horse lovers across the world. However, like any decision, this one comes with pros and cons. You must be confident that you can choose the right animal for you. As with any animal, you also must accept the expected and unexpected costs of ownership, and also the responsibility you have for the horse’s well-being. Finally, if you get through this article and perhaps second guess your decision to own a horse, maybe you might like to consider an alternative to ownership.

It is hard sometimes to convince ourselves that horses, these beautiful creatures, are not chosen purely based on looks. And although a particular breed or colour may currently be popular, you must always make sure that your ultimate decision is based on a few key factors: the horse’s temperament and personality, and the discipline you plan on using the horse for.

Horses in general tend to be a bit spooky, but there is a large range in the temperament of horses, from flighty to docile and from pushy to easy. You need to be comfortable with handling and reacting to the temperament of your horse. All horses also come with their very own personality. For example, you need to recognize that many retired racehorses have either a broken spirit or hatred towards people. Once again, different temperaments and personalities can be worked with, as long as you know what you are willing to deal with in your horse.

If you’ve been thinking about buying a horse, you probably already have been taking lessons and are familiar with the basic horse disciplines. Make sure you do not forget what discipline you would like to go into, because if you purchase a horse that is not suited for the demands of that discipline, you will have an unhappy horse and/or a poor-performing horse. You would, for example, need a different horse for endurance racing than for driving a carriage. Other disciplines include western games (timed obstacle course), dressage (specific movements in a pattern), and the backyard recreational horse.

Admittedly, one of the biggest responsibilities that come with owning a horse is the cost. This factor alone sometimes prohibits ownership. If you do not have the facilities to house the horse, the cost of boarding is comparable to renting an apartment. It ranges from about $300 to over $2000, depending on the amenities included, and will cover the basic maintenance of your horse. In addition, you have transportation costs to and from the barn, in addition to the need for a trailer to transport your horse in. Just like in cats and dogs, there is a yearly check needed by your veterinarian, which involves a physical exam (especially checking teeth) and vaccinations. You will need a farrier to come out about once every two months to properly maintain your horse’s feet (very important!).

There are also the unexpected costs. Due to their anatomy, and common carelessness with their legs, they are prone to leg fractures and punctures. They are also prone to laminitis, which is a type of swelling in the hoof that can cause a horse to become lame, and even be euthanized in severe cases. Laminitis can be caused by just about any stress, such as feed or environment changes, obesity, and colic. Colic, a very common condition in horses, has many different causes (including stress) and can be a life-threatening condition.

On top of the monetary responsibilities for your horse, you do have responsibilities for the well-being of the animal. Just as your dog needs attention every day, your horse will need attention on a regular basis, too. The amount of attention and training that your horse needs varies greatly between horses. You should keep in mind that in order to train and build a relationship with your horse, you should ride it at least 3-4 times a week. This is a large time commitment. A horse is not a shirt that you can just dispose of and find a new one. This is why choosing the horse that’s right for you is so important. If you need to get rid of your horse for any reason, you may be looking at losing some money that you invested. Even worse, you are no longer in control of that animal’s fate; it could end up in a discipline that doesn’t suit it, it could be neglected, or it could be sent to the meat market. You have a responsibility the moment you take any animal under your care.

Good news! There are alternatives to owning your own horse! If the horse was meant for a child, it is always recommended to first send them to horse camp. There they will be performing all the chores involved with taking care of a horse, and will get a better idea about how much enthusiasm they really have for horses. Part-boarding is when someone who owns the horse does not have enough time or funds to board and train it. So for a cost, you can ride the horse a certain number of days per week. This is a great option for someone who realizes they do not want to take on the heavy responsibilities of owning a horse. Leasing a horse is just like leasing a car; you have the horse for a specified amount of time. Leasing is often used for a show season, however keep in mind that on top of the lease fee, you must still pay for maintenance and boarding of the horse.

In a world where most people think of dogs and cats as pets, there is a large group of people who regard horses as valued companions. The benefits of owning a horse tend to be on a larger scale than other pets- horses are companions, therapy, recreation, and sport. The responsibilities of ownership also tend to be on the larger scale as well. As long as the owner is willing to choose the horse that’s right for them, and is aware of the obstacles they may face along the way, horse ownership can be a very rewarding.

Simple Tips for Horse Care

2009-11-12T12:31:00.000-08:00

Do you sometimes feel the need to return the pleasure, comfort, and convenience that you’re receiving from your horse? If so, here’s what you can do to make the life of your horse beautiful indeed.

THE SIMPLE PLEASURE OF FEEDING
Food is one of the simplest but greatest pleasures of horses so make sure that your horse always has all the food that it needs.

There are three types of food that your horse may eat. Pasture is the favorite meal of horses reaching adulthood and used for recreational purposes alone. Keep in mind however that the greenness of a field doesn’t automatically equate to richness in pasture.

Hay is another type of food for horses, but it’s typically fed to those used for domestic work. As hay is more affordable than other types of horse food, do make sure that you’re feeding the best quality of hay to your horses. Secondly, always store hay in a dry but well-ventilated area. Feeding your horse moldy hay can lead to various medical complications. Feeding your horse with hay alone isn't a sufficient diet so consider including another component in your horse’s diet to ensure that all its nutritional needs are met.

Lastly, there are grains or feeds which are specifically produced to provide nourishment for horses. If your horses subsist mainly from hay, make sure that you mix either a small or moderate amount of concentrates with it to give your horse the benefit of a complete meal. Feeding your horse with concentrates is especially important when they expend lots of energy everyday because of working or racing, or when they’re in a pregnant or nursing stage.

Abundant food will keep your horse healthy and happy and personally feeding your horse will strengthen the bond between you and your pet. As such, the act of feeding doesn’t only nourish your horse’s body but his heart as well!

WATER AS THE SOURCE OF LIFE
Horses are always thirsty, and they can consume up to 10 gallons of water everyday. As such, it’s important that you have a ready supply of water for your horses. During the winter, make sure that you place the water in heated buckets to prevent it from freezing.

SALT, MINERALS, AND SUGAR CUBES
Salt and minerals are also important factors in your horse’s diet. Consult your veterinarian as to what your horse should take to consume the necessary vitamins and minerals. Salt blocks and sugar cubes can be purchased from pet food stores. Feed your horses sugar cubes only as a reward because too much of this may cause your horse to suffer from diabetes.

EXERCISING YOUR HORSE
The amount of exercise your horse needs depends primarily on its role in life. If you are using it for competitive riding, you or your coach should determine what type of exercises it needs and how many times it should exercise every week. As for all other types of horses, daily exercise is encouraged to allow horses’ muscles to strengthen and not become affected by arthritis when they reach old age.

CARING FOR YOUR HORSES’ HOOVES
Beginners are usually ignorant of what to do to take proper care their horses’ hooves. A horse’s hooves will strengthen and develop naturally if it gets sufficient exercise. For those that don’t, however, their hooves must be trimmed at least every two months. Secondly, use shoes for your horses only if necessary as various hoof problems are directly or indirectly linked to the use of shoes. Remember that just as it is with our feet, the hooves of horses are also the most abused part of their body so it’s important for us to give them the best care we can afford.

CARING FOR YOUR HORSES’ TEETH
Unlike human teeth, there is no end to periodontal growth for horses. As such, uneven use of their teeth can lead to the development of sharply pointed teeth which may cause chewing troubles. To prevent this from happening, make sure that you have your veterinarian check your horses’ teeth annually.

GROOMING FOR YOUR HORSE
Allow your horses to enjoy baths regularly. Afterwards, remember to brush their coat slowly, carefully, and thoroughly. Make sure that you use grooming products that are specifically designed for horses.

Above all thing else, the best way to make your horse’s life beautiful is by doing your best to make your horse feel beautiful by showering them with love!

Tips for naming your dog

2009-11-12T11:58:00.000-08:00

His looks
Spot, Tiny, or Blackie are all tried and true dog names. The upside is they're descriptive, making it easier to identify your dog if she gets lost. The downside is there are a lot of other dogs with those names. You might want to be more creative so your dog stands out from the crowd.
His special traits
If the two of you will be hunting or fishing together, you might go with the name Pal or Amigo. If your dog is smart, names such as Professor, Einstein or Newton are perfect for him.

Your favourite books, TV shows, movies, etc
Lots of dogs are named Lassie in honor of the Collie of literary, film, and television fame. But you don't have to name your pet after another dog in a movie or TV show. Pick the name of any one of your favorite characters for your dog. If you are a fan of the movie Harry Potter, Harry, Ron, Hagrid are names you can consider.

Human Names
Human names are an increasingly popular option, but make sure you aren't offending any of your living relitives with the same name! Some people might be thrilled to share the same name but others may be quite offended.
Not Too Many Syllables
Names with strong consonants and few syllables are recommended for getting a dogs attention. The letter S, as in Sparky or Spot works particularly well. Ideally, a pet's name should have only two syllables; Oliver, Ginger, and Brandy are good examples.
Helpful hints!
Avoid names that rhyme with the word no, sit, stay, fetch,etc such as Mo, Clay, or Pitt. You don't want to confuse your pup when you're training her. Avoid long or difficult names. Finally, make sure the name is one you won't be embarrassed to call out in front of the neighbors.

Pain Relief For Dogs and Cats

2009-11-12T11:12:00.000-08:00

Are you looking for something to relieve the pain in your pets? Are you re dogs and cats suffering from arthritis and joint pain? Do they have some sort of other debilitating disease that cause them pain? If so, they might benefit from using Extend Pet.

Extend Pet is an aggressive treatment for your pet as an active and preventive set and medicine against the painful experience of arthritis pain. Extend Pet is dogs and cats and for young and old pets alike. You do not want them to go through the excruciating joint pain that many animals sufer from being an active pet through out their life. Extend Pet is only to be used as directed with family pets and used by pet lovers who truly care about the wellbeing of their companion pets.

Extend Pet provides relief of arthritis and joint pain for dogs and cats. Extend Pet is quickly becoming the number one selling pain medication for pets in the world. Extend pets recently crossed the one million mark in worldwide sales. Can you believe that?

Extend Pet will reduce inflammation due to arthritis as well as help keep your pet s joints lubricated. Extend Pet will prevent future joint pain and damage to your pet. Extend Pet is very simple to use and hassle free to administer. Extend Pet has absolutely no known side effects on animals.

Your pet is important to you, insure its health with Extend Pet. This treatment plan will help bring them back to bounding, running, and playing in no time. Extend Pet is made from natural ingredients in order to have the safest most effective treatment for your reliable companion.

Extend Pet can repair already present joint damage in your pet, relieve current aches and pains of your pet, and give them the power and ability to lead a pain free life without any compromises! ExtendPet combines the power of many known anti inflamatories to give your pet the most use and comfort out of their joints.

ExtendPet is composed of Apis Mellifica which is a strong soother of inflammation, Belladonna a slight anesthetic, Byronia Alba to act as a joint lubricant, Caulophyllum to promote blood flow throughout the body, rhus toxicodendron to give your pet the energy to move, and ruta graveolens to protect your pet s connective tissues from damage.

These homeopathic, or organic agents along with others in Extend Pet give your pets what they need to lead a pain free life and be able to get up and down without any anguish. Natural ingredients work with your pet naturally to make their natural motion easier.

No more watching as your closest companion moves while in obvious pain, laboring to get up and down from the floor. Extend Pet will dramatically change the way that your pet lives it s life. The newest Extend Pet compound can be added to their food easily or directly administered by just dropping the liquid formula into their mouths.

ExtendPet is a way to seamlessly better the quality of your pet s life and your life. Give your pets what they deserve!

Ways To Make Cat Happy

2009-11-12T11:05:00.000-08:00

A healthy animal makes for a happy pet. If you are a cat owner and you want to make your pet happy, you need to make sure that your cat is groomed properly, fed on time and is given enough love and attention.

Here are some tips on how you can have a healthy and happy cat:

1. Take care of your cat's health.

As a pet owner, it is your responsibility to make sure that your cat is healthy and free from diseases that may even be transmitted to humans.

Visit the veterinarian if you notice that your cat has become lethargic or less active than usual.

If you see them 'shedding' excessively or has something unusual on their coat, immediately consult a professional.

Your cat might have a skin disease, or this could be a symptom of a sickness that you do not know about.

2. Groom your cat properly.

Cats are in the habit of grooming themselves. You will often see them using their tongue to clean their coat.

In spite of this, you should still do your part in grooming your cat if you want to keep them really clean.

Brush your cat's fur regularly. There are several short-haired cats that need minimal brushing. For this, you can use a comb with soft bristles.

There are also cat breeds which have long, silky furs and this variety needs a much longer grooming time.

Use a wide-toothed comb initially then brush up with a fine toothed one afterwards. You can also use talcum powder in order to separate the hair strands.

Make sure that you brush with gentle strokes so that their skin will not be hurt or scratched.

Cats are also not that fond of taking a bath. But there are times when your cat would need bathing.

This is when they have accumulated a lot of dirt on the skin and coat. Bathing will help eliminate ticks and lice.

Also, there might be substances that could cling on the fur which can be poisonous and it is important for them to bathe.

When bathing your pet, use a shampoo that is specially made for cats. Prepare the following before bathing:

-a small tub or sink -slip-proof mat -water spray attachment -clean, dry towels -shampoo -comb

Adjust the water temperature, then place your cat in the small tub or sink before filling it up with water. It is better to attach a sprayer in the faucet rather than pouring water directly onto its body. Apply a liberal amount of shampoo on the cat's body, and try to avoid the face, especially the eyes and ears.

After rinsing, towel them dry and comb the coat. Bathing time should build trust and create some quality time between you and your pet cat.

This should prevent your cat from making much of a fuss the next time it needs a bath.

Another part of grooming is keeping the eyes, teeth and ears clean. Also remember to keep the paws clean and the nails trimmed.

Go to a pet store and you are sure to find products specially made to clean these parts. You can also look for a nail trimmer specifically designed to use on your pet cat.

Ask a professional groomer or a veterinarian so that you can learn how to properly clean your cat's eyes, ears, teeth and nails.

3. Feed them on time.

Another aspect of keeping your cat happy and healthy is by feeding them well and on time.

Your feline friends can learn how to "stick" to a schedule with your guidance and training.

Make time in your busy day to feed them. You can learn which variety of cat food they prefer by serving different brands and variants.

Along with cat food, you should give them plenty of clean water to drink.

If you have a lot of pet cats, give them individual feeding plates.

If there is just one dish, other cats might not be fed well because dominant felines will take the most part of the food that you serve.

4. Shower them with love and attention.

By giving your cats your undivided attention while grooming and feeding them, you are already showering them with love and attention.

In addition to this, make their play time a lot more fun by appreciating the things that they do.

By following these tips, you are sure to have a healthy cat and be a contented owner.

Good Health and Your Kitten

2009-11-11T11:32:00.000-08:00

The key to keeping your new kitten healthy is understanding the most common medical ailments. The best first step? Finding a veterinarian you trust.

Choose a Veterinarian

Choosing a veterinarian is really selecting a partner in your kitten's health care. Scheduled vaccinations and yearly examinations mean that you'll see your veterinarian on a regular basis, so choose wisely. Use our list as a basis for picking the right veterinary clinic for your cat:
Get recommendations from friends, co-workers and other cat owners to compile an initial list of clinics. Ask them what they like about each one.
Visit each clinic, introduce yourself as a potential client and ask for a tour.
Look for a clean, sterile hospital with up-to-date equipment.
Ask about the emergency care, hours and any equipment or terms you don't understand.
Ask what the fees are for basic shots and exams.

Spaying and Neutering

Owners should have their cats spayed or neutered unless they plan to show or breed them. Consider the following:

What Is It?

"Fixing" is the euphemism for feline surgical sterilization or male neutering.
In females, it's called spaying or ovario-hysterectomy, which involves removal of the uterus and ovaries.
In males, removal of the testicles is called neutering or castration.
Veterinarians advise spaying or neutering by at least 6 months of age.

Why Spay or Neuter?

Each year, millions of cats are put to sleep because the new cat population far exceeds the number of homes that can be found for them. Note the following advantages of spaying and neutering:
Spaying eliminates behavior associated with heat cycles, such as wailing to attract males or spraying urine.
Spaying helps prevent potential health problems, including breast tumors and uterine disease, possibly adding years to your cat's life.
Spaying or neutering helps prevent the occurrence of unwanted litters.
Neutering reduces the effects of puberty and hormones. A neutered male is less likely to mark territory by spraying urine and less apt to roam and get lost, and he won't congregate or fight with other toms over a female in heat.

Common Cat Ailments

Use our guide to some of the most common medical ailments that can affect your kitten. The more you know, the better you'll be able to notice when your kitten isn't feeling well.

Fleas

Description and symptoms. These pinhead-size insects jump from your cat to furniture to you looking for blood.
Fleas are most common in warm weather (spring and summer).
They can transmit parasitic or infectious diseases, including tapeworms.
Flea infestation may in turn cause anemia (low red blood cell count) and/or allergic dermatitis, a skin allergy characterized by itching and irritation.
Though some cats become irritable and scratch, others have no visible signs of discomfort.

Prevention and Treatment

Flea collars, powders and liquid baths are available in pet stores or from your veterinarian. Your veterinarian can also recommend monthly preventative treatments.
Check your cat weekly by rolling her onto her back and looking closely at the belly and around the base of the tail for the small, dark insects as well as for flea "dirt" – small, dark, pepper-like specks. If the dirt turns red when water is added, you've got fleas.
Choose treatments that contain IGRs (insect growth regulators), which interrupt a flea's life cycle. Without IGRs, flea eggs hatch every 21 days, making repeated treatments necessary.
Treat your yard and house for eggs, larvae and pupae. If you use a lawn-care company, include flea treatment as part of their maintenance plan.
Plant marigolds and chrysanthemums in your yard, which contain natural insecticides that may repel fleas.

Hairballs

Description and symptoms. Hairballs are tube-shaped brown masses of hair fibers. When cats clean themselves, they ingest fur. Because hair isn't digestible, it either passes through the intestinal tract and ends up in the litter box or is expelled by vomiting.
Cats who pass hairballs more than once a week or who pass foul-smelling hairballs may have a serious underlying health problem. See your veterinarian.

Prevention and Treatment

Keep your cat well-groomed with regular brushing.
Brush all your cats, not just the ones with hairballs, because cats often groom each other.
Try this easy home remedy. Apply 1 teaspoon of petroleum jelly to the top of each paw. Rub it in before your cat can flick it away. Your cat will lick it off her paws, and it will help ease the hairballs through the intestinal tract. Apply jelly for several days.
Feed one of our hairball care formulas, which help reduce the likelihood of hairball formation. They contain a natural fiber system that gently passes ingested hair through the digestive tract.

Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease (FLUTD)

Description and symptoms. Feline lower urinary tract disease is a potentially fatal, painful inflammation of the lower urinary tract, caused by a variety of things, including viruses, bacteria, diet, decreased water consumption and urine retention.
Symptoms include blood in the urine; difficult and frequent urination, often in small quantities; inappropriate urination; lack of energy; and loss of appetite.

Maintenance of Urinary Tract Health

Maintain proper urinary acidity and magnesium levels through a properly balanced diet that helps promote urinary tract health.
Contact your veterinarian immediately if you notice any symptoms.

Cats For Adoption

2009-11-11T10:27:00.000-08:00

Having a special pet is very important to many individuals. Finding cats for adoption in your area is really easy and you have a lot of choices when it comes to breeds and ages. There are some guidelines to follow when considering cats for adoption and after making some consideration you might find that a new kitty is the right choice for you.

You might be looking at cats for adoption thinking that you want a little kitten. While kittens are great you have some real challenges to face when adopting one. First of all, these cats for adoption will require some training once you get home. If you have never owned a feline before you might want to think about the work involved in litter training.

Kittens also will probably need to come back to be spayed or neutered. This is a very important step in your responsibility to the animal and its kind. Too many cats for adoption never find homes because there is an over population of these potential pets.

The younger cats for adoption will also require a lot of attention as well. You will be house training the pet and you will find yourself socializing the pet, too. This can be a daunting task for someone who works full time and is trying to run a household. You may feel overwhelmed if this is your very first pet.
This may seems as if I’m trying to talk you out of getting a pet but nothing is further from the truth. There are plenty cats for adoption that will segue from the animal shelter right into your home seamlessly. These pets are a little older and a little wiser and there are a lot of reasons that you might want to choose full grown cats for adoption.

The full grown felines are most likely housetrained. You don’t have to worry about teaching your new pet how to use the litter box. This is a real benefit for anyone who doesn’t have a lot of time to devote to training a pet.

These cats for adoption are also usually spayed or neutered already. You don’t have to worry about bringing you pet in for an operation. This saves you time and money. It also saves you the heartache of seeing your beloved pet uncomfortable after the operation as well.

After considering your options you will find that there are more than enough cats for adoption that will suit you. All you need to decide is whether you want a kitten or an adult.

Grooming Your Dog

2009-11-08T21:26:00.000-08:00

It is important that you get your dog accustomed to bathing and grooming early in life by starting off with small, fun sessions when your dog is a puppy. You must also choose a method which will be fun for you and carry it out only when you have plenty of time. If you are stressed or rushed when bathing or grooming your dog, your dog is not likely to enjoy the experience.

Benefits of Regular Grooming

Grooming your dog offers an ideal opportunity to also check its nails, teeth, ears and eyes, and to check for any lumps or scabs which may have developed since last time. Many dogs do not visibly need grooming on a regular basis except when they are shedding their coat. However, some breeds of dogs require extensive grooming on a regular basis to avoid widespread knotting of the hair and possible sores on the skin. You must think about how much time you are prepared to spend doing this before you choose what breed of dog to buy.

Grooming Requirements Differ between Breeds

Long-haired breeds will need grooming every day to avoid build up of knots and tangles. These include German Shepherds, Golden Retrievers, Newfoundlands and Bearded Collies. Breeds such as the Standard Poodle do not shed their coat, which means their hair needs to be cut to keep it in check. This does not mean that they do not need grooming however. Breeds such as Irish Setters and Springer Spaniels have what is called 'Silky' hair. This means that the dead hair has to be removed by hand. Otherwise, the hair will become matted and the dog will develop sores if left unchecked. Getting your dog used to grooming at a young age is especially important with breeds that do require a lot of work. The most time-consuming are wire-haired breeds like the Schnauzer. Their coats will need to be hand 'stripped' at least twice a year. In addition, their coats need to be groomed as often as is possible.

First Steps

The first stage in grooming is to vigorously run your hands through the dog's hair. Not only does this acclimatize your dog to the feeling of being groomed, but it will also show you which areas need the most attention. Run your hands all over the dog - including behind the ears and under the belly. Your dog is likely to really enjoy this invigorating feeling, and it also helps to stimulate the natural oils of the skin.

After this, you can begin to use the grooming tools, which may be different depending on what breed you have. You will usually need a good strong comb (its best to use a metal one), a pair of scissors, and a comb with sharp edges instead of prongs. Special areas to attend to include the hair behind the ears, the hair around the genitals, the hair along the muzzle and the hair between the toes.

Bathing Your Dog

If you are planning on bathing your dog, you should groom it first. This is because the shampoo will not get through the whole coat unless you have removed matting first. You should not bath your dog more often than necessary, since shampoos will remove the natural oils that protect your dogs skin and hair. When shampooing, you should not use everyday soaps or cleaners.

You can get advice about dog shampoos from your vet or from good stockists. Dog shampoos produce less lather, which is very useful if your dog does not like being rinsed! If your dog experiences any skin reaction after bathing, consult your vet about the shampoo you are using - you may need to purchase a medicated shampoo.

If you are not taking your dog to a professional groomer (who will usually bath your dog for you), you can use your bath at home. Be sure to put a non-slip mat in the bath to prevent your dog from slipping and hurting itself. This also prevents scratching to the enamel. When your dog is secure in the bath, gently introduce the water. This is best by use of an extendible shower head.

The water should be warm, and avoid spraying the water straight at his face, ears or genitals. Wet the dog all over, talking to and massaging your dog as you go. Next introduce the shampoo, working from the top of the body down and finishing at the face. Dog shampoo will probably not sting the dog's eyes but you should still be careful.

When you are sure your dog is thoroughly covered in shampoo, it is time to start rinsing. Again, start from the top. When you are sure that all shampoo has been removed, switch off the water and squeeze the hair with your hands to remove the excess. Do this before the dog gets out of the bath! Then give your dog a good rub down with an old towel to remove excess dampness. If your dog can tolerate a hairdryer, be sure not to put it too close to the skin. If not, then you will need a couple more towels.

How did it go?

To finish off the process, give the hair a brief run through with a good brush. The hair should be soft and silky, and free of matting and knots. If you find that this process is too stressful for you or your dog, you can hire a professional to do it. You may even be able to get enough tips from them to be confident of trying it again next time round.

Removing Dog Tear Stains

2009-11-08T04:38:00.000-08:00

Dog tear stains often occur with small dogs and can be a pain to deal with. Different species of dogs suffer from variety of similar problems which are mainly caused due to the overflow of tears into the cheeks which affects, white and other light color dogs the most. Tear accrual on facial hairs can often lead to clumping of the hair, skin annoyance and perhaps bug infections. Hair actually acts like a protective shield of the eye by stopping the inflow of tears. These hairs needs proper care can be made possible by keeping the area hygienic and removing accumulated material or sludge. If a skin abrasion or any type of eye contagion or trouble is suspected, it is advisable to visit a veterinarian doctor with your pet.

You need to take care to eradicate any bacterial or yeast infectivity. The most common is red yeast, related with reddish-brown facial stains and probably sensible to strong aroma, as bacteria on hair and skin react with the clear tears. There are many dog tear stain remover products available but many are formulated differently.

Many researchers consider the individual structure around the eye area plays an important role in stain problems. If so, then genetics may be the source of the problem. Miniature breeds often have more prominent eyes that stretch the eyelid and can cut off the drainage system. There is little that can be done to correct this. Sometimes the eyelids turn inward and block the drainage; this is surgically correctable. However, if you think surgery is too severe and the problem isn't that bad, try alternative methods that are less callous.

Different products have been considered effective in various ways to solve the problem of stains, but the natural ingredient tylosin is very effective in this aspect. A dog tear stain remover needs to be effective and delicate which can handle the problems without any side effects. Determining the source of tear and face stains is very important. The issue of dog tear stains is more than an appearance problem. Dog tear stains can be traced to health and diet, as well as genetics. Make sure there are no underlying health problems causing the excessive tearing and staining.

In some cases there are dyes in the food, which can actually aggravate the tear staining more. One solution is to actually prepare the food yourself using only natural ingredients, with dog tear stain remover and allow them only to drink bottled water. It is preferable to use the special all natural powder and mix it in with your dog's food or water and within about 2 weeks the draining from the eyes stops and the problem begins to resolve itself. Our Maltese had terrible tear stains and in about 2 weeks they were gone. Best of all this solution is all natural.

Train Dog With Collar And Leash

2009-11-07T23:08:00.000-08:00

The leash and training collar is the most basic piece of equipment used in training a dog. Using the lead and training collar properly is vital to successful dog training. The training collar is designed to apply a specific amount of pressure each time the leash is tightened. The amount of pressure put on the leash controls the amount of pressure placed on the training collar, and the pressure can be adjusted according to how the dog responds.

How each dog responds to training with the leash and training collar is quite variable. Some dogs barely react the first time they encounter a collar and leash, while others fight this strange contraption with all their might. It is important to recognize how your own dog reacts, and to adapt your training program as needed.

The first part of training with collar and leash, of course, is to purchase a quality, well made training collar that will fit your dog properly. There are many types of training collars and leashes on the market. The most important thing is to choose one that is sturdy and well made. The last thing you want to do is chase your dog down after he has broken his collar.

The length of the collar should be approximately two inches longer than the circumference of the dog's neck. It is important to accurately measure the dog's neck using a measuring tape. In order to get an accurate measurement, you must make sure that the tape is not tight around the dog's neck.

Most training collars come in even sizes, so you should round up to the next size if your dog's neck is an odd number. It is important that the chain that attaches to the collar be placed at the top of the dog's neck. That is where the training collar is designed to apply the best pressure.

The ability to apply varying degrees of pressure, and to relieve that pressure instantly, is what makes a training collar such an effective tool. It usually takes new users a little while to get used to using the training collar, and some styles of training collar require more finesse than others. If you are unsure which collar to choose, be sure to ask a professional dog trainer, or the management staff at your local pet store, for help.

After you have become familiar with the way the training collar works, it is time to begin using it to train your dog to walk properly on a lead. The well trained dog is one who will walk at his owner's side on a loose lead, neither dropping behind nor charging ahead.

The well trained dog will also vary his pace to meet that of his handler. Under no circumstances should the handler be forced to change his or her pace to match that of the dog.

If the dog does begin to charge ahead, it is important to correct the dog promptly by giving a quick tug on the leash. This will give the dog a good reminder that he needs to change his pace. It is important to quickly relieve the pressure as soon as the dog responds. The training collar is designed to relieve pressure as soon as the leash is loosened.

Most dogs will immediately respond to corrections by a good, properly used training collar. If the dog does not respond as directed, it may be necessary to apply greater pressure. This can be especially true of large dogs or those who have preexisting behavior or control problems. If you are still unable to get a response from your dog, it is possible that you are using a training collar that is not large enough for your dog. If you think this may be the case, be sure to ask for expert advice before proceeding.

Protect pet from pests

2009-10-24T11:20:00.000-07:00

Summer's here, and with it comes fun in the sun, camping and hiking trips to the lake -- and the usual summertime pests. Fleas, ticks and mosquitoes are visual reminders of the itchy woes we and our pets have to deal with, but there are also those sneaky unseen pests -- waterborne parasites and bacterial infections, to mention just two. While we don't want to get your head spinning with worry, we do want you to know what you and your pets are up against, and how to mitigate any ill effects. As G.I Joe would say, "Knowing is half the battle."

FLEAS
These pests are nearly impossible to avoid for an entire season. Even with shampoos, collars, powders and sprays, your pet may still end up with fleas. The flea life cycle includes the adult flea, eggs, larva and pupa. The adult fleas are responsible for the biting that leads to itching, but they can't survive long if they are not on the pet; once they lay their eggs, they fall off. Fleas also lay their eggs in shady areas outside and around the house.
Most owners first notice frequent and severe itching and scratching, hair lossand scabs on their pets. Often, the hind end is affected more than the front of the body or the head. Other effects include anemia, tapeworm infection(caused by a parasite that finds an intermediate host in the flea), pruritis(intense itching with inflamed skin) and hypersensitivity. There is also plagueand, in cats, the Rickettsia felis and Bartonella hensellae diseases. The best way to check for fleas is with a flea comb. Frequent bathing and combing are essential components of any flea treatment program.
TICKS
Lovely days out in the woods, communing with nature, breathing fresh air... these are the joys of summer. Unfortunately, ticks like these spots, too, and they don't mind waiting for warm-blooded travelers like you and your pet to hitch a ride on.
Ticks have hard back shields and can be felt as small bumps during regular petting. They are visible when the fur is parted. The effects from their bites include blood loss anemia, hypersensitivity, pruritis and damage to the lymphatic, immune and nervous systems. Some of the more serious diseases that ticks can transmit are Rocky Mountain spotted fever, Lyme disease, ehrlichiosis and babesiosis.
If you will be spending time in grassy or wooded areas with your pet, be sure to do a tick inspection daily so that you can remove the tick before it does damage. Removal technique is important: Make sure to become familiar with the proper procedure before doing it. You don't want to end up with a worse situation because of improper removal.
MOSQUITOES
Even your indoor pets are at risk for the miseries brought on by mosquitoes, since the bugs still get inside on occasion and can bite through screens on windows, where cats tend to rest. Of course, mosquitoes cause itchy bumps, and that is irritating enough -- but they also carry serious, life-threatening diseases. Heartworm, a roundworm that can infect both cats and dogs, is a silent killer that can be treated easily if caught in time. And two diseases that affect both humans and animals, like cats and dogs are Saint Louis Encephalitis (SLE), which attacks the brain, and West Nile Virus (WNV).
TAPEWORMS, AKA, CESTODIASIS
These little buggers cause itching in a most unfortunate spot, so if you notice that your dog or cat is dragging its hind end across the floor, or licking its anus more than usual, it may have a case oftapeworms. Tapeworm species include Taenia, Dipylidium Caninum, Echinococcus andMesocestoides. Pieces of the worm may or may not be visible in the feces, so if you suspect an infestation of this parasite, take your pet to the veterinarian for a fecal examination.
Treatment to destroy tapeworms is critical to avoid transmission to humans (typically children) and to avert damage to your pet's body. Tapeworms are usually picked up through fleas, when an animal ingests an infected flea, and when animals ingest smaller wild animals that are infected, such as rabbits, birds and rodents.
BOTFLY
Also called the Cuterebra, the botfly hangs out in grass, latching onto warm-blooded animals that pass by. Symptoms of botfly infection include seizures, aggression, blindness, and warbles, or lumps, in the skin where the botfly has taken up residence. In cats, the cuterebra larva typically travels to the brain.
SARCOPTES SCABIEI MITE
Most prevalent in the summer months, the condition caused by this mite -- known as scabies ormange -- is more of a nuisance than a danger. Of course, any condition that results in open wounds is dangerous because it opens the body to bacterial invasion. The most common risk of exposure comes from contact with other animals and outdoor activities. Treatment is the same as for fleas but more aggressive, with quarantining and thorough baths.
AQUATIC AND FUNGAL PARASITES
At some point in the summer, it gets too hot to do anything but find a body of water and jump in. While we would never dissuade you from doing that, we do want you to be an informed swimmer. One type of waterborne parasite, the Heterobilharzia americanum, a flatworm, uses water snails as their intermediate hosts until they are big enough to search for larger, warmer-blooded hosts. Symptoms and signs can range from relatively mild, such as diarrhea and itching, to severe organ and intestinal damage. This is most common in southern waters and is most likely to affect sporting dogs that fetch in wet and wooded areas, but it can infect anyone who swims in contaminated waters. Another type of parasitic bacteria picked up in wet, subtropical areas is theLeptospira interrogans, a corkscrew-shaped bacteria that burrows into the skin and spreads through the bloodstream.
Where the climate is drier, the Coccidioides immitis is the culprit for a host of nasty conditions. These fungal spores behave like parasites; they spread when the dirt they live in is disturbed by rain or digging, and the wind picks them up to disperse them. They are then inhaled or ingested. Diseases that result from this infection include San Joaquin Valley Fever, California Fever, cocci and desert fever. And last, but not even close to least, is the opportunistic Aspergillus mold, which grows in grass clippings and dust. Like the cocci fungus, it also enters through the nasal passages.
We wouldn't want you and your pets to stay cooped up for fear of what is out there. So arm yourself with knowledge and repellants, and get outside. With some vigilance and planning, you will find the end of summer coming much too soon again -- and we'll be here to see you into autumn.

Pets Reduce Stress

2009-10-24T11:08:00.000-07:00

When thinking of ways to reduce stress in life, usually techniques like meditation, yoga and journaling come to mind. These are great techniques, to be sure. But getting a new best friend can also have many stress relieving and health benefits. While human friendsprovide great social support and come with some fabulous benefits, this article focuses on the benefits of furry friends: cats and dogs! Research shows that, unless you’re someone who really dislikes animals or is absolutely too busy to care for one properly, pets can provide excellent social support, stress relief and other health benefits—perhaps more than people! Here are more health benefits of pets:

Pets Can Improve Your Mood:
For those who love animals, it’s virtually impossible to stay in a bad mood when a pair of loving puppy eyes meets yours, or when a super-soft cat rubs up against your hand. Research supports the mood-enhancing benefits of pets. A recent study found that men with AIDS were less likely to suffer from depression if they owned a pet. (According to a press release, men with AIDS who did not own a pet were about three times more likely to report symptoms of depression than men who did not have AIDS. But men with AIDS who had pets were only about 50 percent more likely to report symptoms of depression, as compared to men in the study who did not have AIDS.)
Pets Control Blood Pressure Better Than Drugs:
Yes, it’s true. While ACE inhibiting drugs can generally reduce blood pressure, they aren’t as effective on controlling spikes in blood pressure due to stress and tension. However, in a , groups of hypertensive New York stockbrokers who got dogs or cats were found to have lower blood pressure and heart rates than those who didn’t get pets. When they heard of the results, most of those in the non-pet group went out and got pets!
Pets Encourage You To Get Out And Exercise:
Whether we walk our dogs because they need it, or are more likely to enjoy a walk when we have companionship, dog owners do than non-pet owners, at least if we live in an urban setting. Because exercise is good for stress management and overall health, owning a dog can be credited with increasing these benefits.
Pets Can Help With Social Support:
When we’re out walking, having a dog with us can make us more approachable and give people a reason to stop and talk, thereby increasing the number of people we meet, giving us an opportunity to increase our network of friends and acquaintances, which also has great stress management benefits.
Pets Stave Off Loneliness and Provide Unconditional Love:
Pets can be there for you in ways that people can’t. They can offer love and companionship, and can also enjoy comfortable silences, keep secrets and are excellent snugglers. And they could be the best antidote to loneliness. In fact, research shows that nursing home residents reported less loneliness when visited by dogs than when they spent time with other people! All these benefits can reduce the amount of stress people experience in response to feelings of social isolation and lack of social support from people.
Pets Can Reduce Stress—Sometimes More Than People:
While we all know the power of talking about your problems with a good friend who’s also a good listener, recent research shows that spending time with a pet may be even better!Recent research shows that, when conducting a task that’s stressful, people actually experienced less stress when their pets were with them than when a supportive friend or even their spouse was present! (This may be partially due to the fact that pets don’t judge us; they just love us.)
It’s important to realize that owning a pet isn’t for everyone. Pets do come with additional work and responsibility, which can bring its own stress. However, for most people, the benefits of having a pet outweigh the drawbacks. Having a furry best friend can reduce stress in your life and bring you support when times get tough.

Helping pets

2009-10-24T10:55:00.000-07:00

According to the Center for Disease Control, pet ownership has a number of significant health benefits. Pet owners experience lower blood pressure, cholesterol and triglyceride levels, and are often more active than those without pets. A National Institute of Health workshop held in 1987 concluded that pets are especially beneficial for older people and children, albeit for quite different reasons. Older people enjoy the companionship and derive health benefits from the increased level of activity and attention that pets generally require, while children learn responsibility and socialization skills in the safety of a nonjudgmental relationship with the family pet. Additionally, scientific studies have shown that people with pets suffer significantly lower levels of stress during major life changes than those without them.

Certainly, relocation is a major life change. Since pets help their owners to cope with the stress surrounding your move, it's only fair that you should help your pets in return by shielding them from as much of the stress and bustle surrounding a move as possible. Veterinarians agree that pets can often suffer more stress during a move than their owners, in part because pets cannot understand why their environment is changing so radically and rapidly. While every pet will react to stress differently, here are some helpful suggestions to consider.

Leave your pet's possessions for last

Packing up your dog's favorite toys or moving your cat's litter box may seem like a small matter to you, but it can be very upsetting to your pet. Since you can't explain to your dog that he'll get his toys back after the move, it's better to leave them out until right before the move. You can then move them at the same time you move him. This will also give your dog a familiar object or two to play with on the journey to your new home, which can relieve some stress in itself.

Plan a sleepover for your pet

One way to spare your pet stress if you are moving within the same city is to arrange for her to stay with a friend for a few days. After the move is complete, you can bring your pet to her new home and allow her to adjust to one major change rather than a whole series of upsetting and repeated changes to her environment.

Last packed, first unpacked

It's a good idea to unpack your pet's toys, food, and litter box first, before allowing him into the new home. Unfamiliar surroundings can be frightening and disorienting for your pet, so seeing the familiar objects from home can help take the edge off a stressful situation. It may also be helpful to physically show your pet the way to the areas that will be important to him, such as food and water dishes, litter boxes, and the all-important doggie door.

Lots of love and attention

Your pet can't tell you how she's feeling, but she often shows it in the way she acts. Make sure your pet gets plenty of cuddles and petting. Praise her for using the doggie door, scratching to be let outside, or finding the litter box; this will reinforce these behaviors and ensure they continue in the new environment. Hugging your pet will make you feel better too, and reduce stress levels for both of you.

Your pet does so much for your family's health and emotional well-being. These simple steps can help you return the favor and reduce stress for your pet when you relocate, ensuring a smoother move for all the members of your family, including the four-footed variety.

Pet Health Insurance

2009-10-24T10:47:00.000-07:00

People are becoming more curious about the best pet health insurance. This is more true for those who treat their pets as family. And as you go about pet ownership, you will realize how expensive it can be to have you furry companions go through a periodic medical check up to ensure that they are at the top of their health all the time.

Once you start searching for the insurance companies, you will notice that you have so many to choose from. But do not take anything just because it seems to offer the best plans. You must do further research to be sure that you are getting into the real deal. Think about your pets. What do you think will be best for them?

And do not forget the most important rule when you are on the process of finding the right policy for your pet, ask questions. The process is similar to the steps you take when you avail insurance policies for yourself. You must choose the one that will be all worth it in the end. You must feel secure that your policy will take care of you if anything happens all of a sudden like an accident or certain illnesses.

Your role in determining what insurance will work best for your pets is to ask the right questions. If you have no idea on how to go about it, you can start with these selections.

1. Can I avail the service of my chosen vet? Different companies will have different answers to this one depending on their rules and the policy that you will be getting. It is important to know at first hand that when an accident happen, you can bring your pet to the nearest vet and not worry about if they are affiliated with the insurance company or not. But if it is okay with you that the company has a list of service providers, then you must get a copy of that list. This way, you will know where to run once an unexpected incident happen to you pet.

2. Do I need to get a comprehensive plan or a discount insurance plan? This will very much depend on your budget. The comprehensive insurance plan works more like the health insurance of humans. Whereas a discount plan will require you to pay annual fees and you will only avail of discount services with regards to pets and other related examinations.

3. Is there any exclusion to the plan? The answer to this will depend on the insurance company. But the most common exclusions include pre-existing health conditions as well as hereditary defects of your pets. So you have to tell them the exact situation of your furry friend. This way, they will be able to present to you what they deem will suit your pet the best way possible.

4. Are there any deductibles that I have to pay? This will depend on the plan that you will be getting. The deductible is the first payment that you have to give before you can utilize the policy. The smaller this is, the higher your premium will be. But this must be decided according to what you can afford. So look at your budget closely and allocate for such fund wisely. By asking around the right questions, in time, you will be able to find the best pet health insurance that will perfectly fit on your pet’s needs and on your budget.

A Bed for Your Dog

2009-10-24T10:12:00.000-07:00

Everyone and everything needs sleep. During sleep the body restores itself to prepare for the next day. Getting a good night's sleep it vital for all living creatures. Dogs love to sleep! And, they usually like to sleep in the same place.

Getting a dog bed for your pooch will not go unappreciated. A dog sleeping on a cold floor is uncomfortable - cold draws away body heat, and make the animal cold. Getting a bed for your dog will have its benefits for you as well. A dog without its own bed will not always sleep on the floor - especially if you are not around. Fido sleeps on the couch, or in a chair or even on your bed. After all, doggie doesnt want to sleep on a cold hard floor if there is something soft and cushie available!

A dog bed will also cut down on the amount of dog fur you find all over the furniture. After all, if your dog is not sleeping on the furniture, there will be less of it around.

Dog beds do not need to be expensive for your dog to enjoy it. They are very comfortable for your pet, and some even come with headrests. Your dog will go back to it again and again. Plus it won't be straining your dog's bones, as sleeping in the floor does, and it will help with circulation.

Do both you and your dog a favor and get a dog bed! It will be the best decision and one you will never reqret!

Holidays for Pets

2009-10-24T00:30:00.000-07:00

The holidays are exciting and hectic times for the entire family, pets

included. While your family pets will enjoy being included in the festivities, they may also encounter situations that can be hazardous. Each year, thousands of pets are taken to animal hospitals for treatment of holiday related injuries or illnesses.

Some of the more common holiday hazards include:

Bones: Turkey or ham will leave a lot of tantalizing bones – DO NOT FEED THEM TO YOUR PETS! Small bones and bone chips can lodge in the throat, stomach, and intestinal tract.

Fat: Food with high fat content, such as gravies and poultry skin, can cause severe stomach upset. You don’t do your pet any favors by sharing the holiday food.

Sweets: Too much candy can lead to stomach upset, and CHOCOLATE CAN BE FATAL! Keep holiday sweets out of reach of your pets.

Plants: Holly and mistletoe are poisonous when eaten, and the sap and leaves poinsettias cause severe stomach upset. Keep plants out of reach of pets.

Holiday trees: Anchor your tree securely: a tree climing cat or a big dog with a wagging tail could topple a tree. Preservatives in the tree water can cause intestinal problems, especially if you add sugar or aspirin to the water, so make sure the base of water is inaccessible to pets.

Ornaments: Sharp or breakable ornaments, small dreidels, tinsel, and ribbon can injure your pets. Safeguard them at all costs.

Stress and Strangers: With visitors coming and going, keep an eye out for open doors. Make sure your pets have identification in case they slip out. Provide a quiet, special place for your pets to retreat to when festivities become overwhelming.

DOG CLOTHING

2009-10-20T09:07:00.000-07:00

To some dog owners, a sweater on a pet is like adult clothing on a child. Looks cute, but isn't functional. To the contrary, there are many solid reasons for clothing your pet. Warmth is number one.

Many pets do not have the necessary coat thickness for comfort outdoors in cold climates. And, unlike your pet's outdoor-roaming ancestors, most modern dogs spend their lives primarily indoors. Since we add extra layers to go outdoors in winter, it makes sense that our dogs would need a little something extra to tackle howling wind, rain, or freezing temperatures.

Rain gear keeps your pet dry in wet weather; sweaters and coats provide the insulation he needs. Also, older dogs, like older people, may feel the cold more than they did when they were younger. A sweater, coat and even boots are just the ticket to keep him more comfortable outdoors or more toasty in a drafty home.

Dog clothing serves other beneficial purposes too. For pets with allergies, a layer of clothing can make itchy skin less accessible to scratching, chewing, and licking. Clothing can also keep allergies off of the dog's skin, thus decreasing exposure to what makes him scratch. Similarly, when people are allergic to their pets, pet clothing helps trap the dander that would ordinarily fall onto your floors and furniture. Simply remove the clothing and wash to get rid of the allergy causing dander.